Day 99 -25 Miles (1692 miles from Mexico)

When I woke up my stomach was feeling better, and I knew i would have a good day of walking…and WOW, I wasn’t in the middle of the granite pillars of rock like yesterday morning, but the area was simply stunning! The copious lakes, wildflowers, rock grottos and lush meadows were otherworldly. I looked up at one moment and saw a beautiful little fox checking me out. We both sat there for about 10 seconds admiring each other before I ruined the moment and reached for my camera, sending him scurrying on his way.
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I swore I could see fresh footprints on the ground before me and had a feeling a thru-hiker may have passed me since I made such an early camp the night before. I came upon a NOLS group out for a month and learned a fast hiker in a white hat was just about a half mile in front of me…a white hat? Didn’t sound like anyone I knew.
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There were a couple of short, steep climbs before I reached Hat Pass and the world unveiled itself, magnificent!!!!!
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AND I could see the white-hatted thru-hiker a ways down the trail, I’m gonna catch him! I came up upon Toast chatting to a couple out for a week. I’d heard of Toast on the trail, but this was my first time meeting him. We all stopped for a few minutes to soak in the view. Dude. Love the Winds.
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Toast and I hiked together about 2 miles before my 10+ mile side trail to Pinedale came up and he kept going, having carried enough food to get him through the whole Winds. That was a bit of a bummer, I finally meet another northbounder, and only get to hike with him for 2 miles! Oh well, that’s how the trail works.

I started down the Pole Creek side trail, and even though Ley’s maps said it was just over 10 miles, it felt longer. A brief storm passed through dropping hail and heavy rain, but it passed quickly, the mountains behind me didn’t look so lucky. I wonder if Toast ended up heading up Knapsack Col, a stunning pass, which can be quite difficult even in good weather (and an alternate). If I get up there and the weather doesn’t look good I’ll probably skip it, but I hear it’s one of the best views on the trail, so I hope I luck out!
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About a mile before the Elkhorn Trailhead I ran into Marion and Bill who had been out for a week. I was able to secure a ride with them the 15 miles to town, and we had a great chat about gear and backpacking on the way down. They dropped me off at the Wind River Brewery where I had a pale ale and ruben sandwich. I left so full (I really don’t know why I get so full off a regular sized meal, what’s up stomach????) that I was in pain, and started walking towards the campground in the middle of town when Smiles, a 2014 CDT thru-hiker, stopped and asked if I needed a ride…well sure!!

She offered me a ride back to the trail tomorrow, and upon getting to the campsite, saw that it was closed….hmmmm…but there were a few tents set up anyway, so I got out and pitched my tent next to some great divide bikers. They weren’t sure what the deal was, apparently the city just bought the campground, but the previous owner was still there and said they could camp. I chatted with the 2 young guys who were biking, set up my stuff, chatted with Kirk and laid down to let my stomach do its thing.

It was a little noisy, but had a pretty good night’s sleep.

Continental Divide Trail: Day 98 -21 Miles (1667 miles from Mexico)

I intended to hike more than 21 miles again today, but this afternoon my stomach started feeling iffy, so I took an early day to lay down and hopefully rest-off whatever that feeling is. I should make it to Pinedale tomorrow with another 20ish mile day, and am leaning towards a quick resupply and then out…although some thru-hikers say Pinedale is their favorite trail town on the CDT, I can’t pass up a recommendation like that!

See the thing about Pinedale is that it requires a 10 mile (off trail) hike out to a trail head and then a 15 mile hitch. That’s 20 miles that don’t count towards Canada! However the alternative is to do a 6-8 day food carry in the Winds, when it’s nice to slow down and not rush through. So there’s my delima, and since I only carried 4 days of food of out Lander, my decision has already been made! Pinedale is next.

Today was more granite spires and peaks. This area is amazing. No words.

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I left the challenging terrain behind when I rejoined the main CDT (after the Cirque of the Towers alternate that I had taken), but first had a nice talused climb up and over Texas Pass.

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The steep passes turned into gentle rolling terrain with tons of lakes and even more mosquitos. Oh yes, they are out for blood.

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I met another flip flopper, Matt…I had met Stabby, Kiddo, and Banjo yesterday. So fun to see hikers! Although they are going the other way…

My stomach started feeling wierd before lunch and I just didn’t feel like eating more than a plain tortilla. I slowly walked a few more miles before deciding I wanted to lay down. Hope this passes overnight.

Continental Divide Trail: Day 96 – 21 Miles (1625 miles from Mexico)

The morning was quiet as I packed up, drank my coffee, and surfed the internet. Tom, Laurie, and their friend came by at 9am for my ride, and we had a great time chatting the 30+ miles back to the trail…Great people!

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The walking was pretty gentle, rising up and down small rocky buttes, crossing many streams, and the terrain still seemed like the foothills of the mountains, not quite great divide basin, not quite high alpine mountains. I could see the landscape changing though, and the mountains rose up around me and the summits became more defined as I hiked during the day.

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It was quiet and serene…not much happened other than I put a dent into all the good food I’m carrying now, and listened to a few new podcasts.

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Tomorrow I’ll take the Cirque of the Towers in the Winds! STOKED!

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Continental Divide Trail: Day 95 – 0 Miles

Ahhhh, ending the day with french chocolates and wine…where am I? This message was brought to you by the incredibly generous people around me…especially since I’m staying at a stranger’s parent’s house in Lander. Ok, not a stranger anymore, my friend Kelly’s cousin’s friend’s (Matt) parent’s house…she hooked me up with Matt today and we just had a fabulous dinner with his wife Chelsie and their little daughter Genevieve.

But back to this morning. As with many mornings in the hotels, I sleep in, just incredibly happy to be in a bed, and finally rouse myself with thoughts of coffee. I hit the continental breakfast and got back into bed for the next 4 hours…check out isn’t until 11!

The day after that passed quickly, I said goodbye to Lint, Justa, Grapenut, and Patches who were off to discover another chunk of trail, but I really wanted to recover just a tad more before entering the next challenging section…the Wind River Range!

To say I’m excited about the next stretch of trail is an understatement. I’ve heard about these mountains for years, and what I learned from Matt was that it’s one of the most remote ranges in the lower 48…bring it! AND it’s also the start of grizzly country. I’m trying not to get anxious about that yet…and we’ll see what really happens. I have a bear bell and bear spray (I’ve been told to keep it HANDY), so we’ll see.

I got a pizza for lunch and spent a few hours lazing around before heading over to meet Matt. Great peeps are never hard to find in an outdoor town…and before I went to his house stopped by the Wild Iris outdoor store where I met Tom and Laurie Jungst (a bad-ass ski mountaineer!!) where I spent the next hour talking trail. I also met Vogue (AT 2005) who worked there, we had a great time! Tom and Laurie are going to take me back to the trail in the morning, and when I got a chance I googled Tom and found how truly bad-ass of a skier he is (lots of ski movies & ran a company with Conrad Anker!)…so cool!

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Now I have a whole house to chillax in and a bed with my name on it. The trail provides!

Continental Divide Trail: Day 94 – 28 Miles (1604 miles from Mexico)

The glowing horizon beckoned this morning, but I had a hard time rousing myself…no matter, these guys are not early risers, and even after I was up and drinking my coffee they slept. Its pretty interesting to see all these different hiking styles out here. As much as I love hiking with others, sometimes it’s hard to give up your method for anothers…but since our time together is coming to a close soon I happily hike what this crew wants to hike. Onward!

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This was the Oregon Trail!

The day was more rolling vast tracts of land. As we wandered in and out of the rises and draws I tried to soak it all in since the Winds were getting closer and closer. Soon I wouldn’t have these vistas, instead I would have towering granite peaks and high alpine lakes, Yes! I love all the diversity out here. Just as you are getting tired of one type of landscape, here comes its polar opposite to mix things up.

Justa was meeting us at South Pass City, which really isnt a city…it’s a historic site, with many of the old city’s attractions placed behind glass so the modern day man can marvel at the days past. It’s also a place where hikers can send themselves maildrops, and in my case, a place I put on my blog as a mail drop, and did I get mail!!!!!!

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Thanks!!!!!!!

Thank you my dear readers! I was blown away by the goodness contained in cardboard which included:
-chocolates from FRANCE from my Peace Corps friend Christine!
-chips, goodies, and a little reminder of our Jennifer Connely movie marathon from my ladies in Bend Brooke & Adryon…they even included Sparrow Bakery cookies!!!!
-a box of letters and coffee and yumminess from my fellow board members at Art in the High Desert, I’ll be missing the show at the end of August in Bend, but they have me covered out here!
-delights from my parent’s friends Pete & Verona, and a little rum to ease the aching legs!
-socks, mini packets of deliciousness and more from fellow hiker Bethany (Gloves) who knows first hand what a hiker would need out here

All of this comes at a very good time, because I want to:
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Hiker Hunger!

Ok, after all of these eats we decided to walk the next 3 miles to highway 28 where Justa would drive around, meet us, and take us into Lander – about 35 miles away.

I didn’t want to hike anymore, my knees have been ACHING from all the high miles, but I knew this would make getting back to the trail MUCH easier since I wouldn’t be with the Justa-mobile after this.

I decided my body needed a day off, and the rest of the crew would be hiking out the next day.

We made a bee-line to Cowfish, the brewery and steak house in town, had an AMAZING burger, and then checked into a hotel down the road.

Time to go comotose.

Continental Divide Trail: Day 93 -34 Miles (1576 miles from Mexico)

I slept well on the hard ground. Most nights I get a full night’s sleep, no matter that I’m sleeping on a 1/4 inch of foam on the earth, I am tired enough.

It looked like a cross country section in today’s walking would be really difficult for Justa to get around…the surrounding roads just didn’t line up with where the trail was going, so we begrudgingly packed up our bags, we would backpack the next 60 miles…but not before breakfast!!

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We had an amazing masterpiece scramble by Justa, and with full bellies and long miles ahead, we set off.

And the sky does not dissapoint! We cruised the surface of the earth and scared up lots of antelope, wild horses, mule deer, and even bunnies. What a day!

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At about 30 miles I started to slow down, and by the time we were looking for camp and not finding anything in the lumpy, rocky, sagebrushy landscape, finally pitched in the road. “Road” being a fairly generous term.

Food!

Continental Divide Trail: Day 92 – 37 Miles (1542 miles from Mexico)

We woke up when the sky took on a brilliant sheen in the east. I made some coffee and we decided to hike a few miles to where Justa would drive ahead and make us breakfast…what!?! Wow!!!

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And yes, it really was that good. We would hike and Justa would meet us a bit down the road where we had coolers full of cold drinks and a full array of snacks awaited us. This is living.

We laughed from time to time at how decadent this all was, and reflecting on my almost solo 3 months of hiking, loved at how the trail had turned that on its head. People! Food! Friends! Turning a challenging section into a blast!

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By 8pm or so we had gone just over 37 miles, my longest day ever on any trail. And yep, it meant hiking all day, but we also got in some great lounging around too.

Justa shined again at making sure we were full and sated (bloody marys, really!)

Lovely day.

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Continental Divide Trail: Day 91 – 21 Miles (1505 miles from Mexico)

I woke from the depths of the Days Inn bed…this much comfort makes it hard to get up in the morning! I put the little hotel coffee pot to work and curled up in bed with my phone; it’s a common occurance when you get a bunch of hikers together where there is wifi available, to see everyone absorbed in their little screen…me included. One of the modern signs of trail life.

After a lazy morning we all headed to City Market to buy groceries for the 120 mile stretch of the Great Divide Basin. We would all hike together during this section, as Justa drives the route and cooks for us. What!?! How did I get so lucky?

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This is Lint’s triple triple hike, and he wants to do it big for what might possibly be his last long trail, at least the last for a while. Having Justa out here meeting him with good company, food, and beer had put a spring in his step…and I’m thrilled to get to hang with them for a few days! I won’t be keeping up the 35-40+ miles per day that he plans to cover, but for this dry long exposed section it’s perfect to challenge myself with the bigger days. Why not? There’s a hot meal and cold beer involved!

We hit an AMAZING Thai buffet on the way out of town, and with stomachs full and legs rested, we walked out of town into the great wide open.

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We covered about 21 miles this afternoon, skirting the highway for a while, and then heading straight off into the nothingness. (there’s actually not too much nothingness out here, we’ve seen lots of antelope, wild horses, lizards, cows, snakes, bunnies…beneath the scrubby brush there is a whole world teaming out here).

We ended the day when we found Justa on a little overlook that would make a perfect campspot. We relaxed in our camp chairs and inhaled the delicious dinner she made us.

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I’m so lucky!

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Continental Divide Trail: Day 90 – 32 Miles (1484 miles from Mexico)

I woke knowing I would see Lint soon, and as I hit the highway and turned on my phone at the pass, sent him a text and continued walking down the road. At the same time I noticed a truck parked just ahead, and as soon as I got a bit closer, noticed a tent next to it.

Could it be? No…wait, yes, it’s Lint and Justa!

They were camped right around the corner from where I was. He had hiked until about 9pm and she had been there, and I woke them up as I came rushing in to the truck.

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Yeah girl!

Yes!!!!

They woke up and we reunited…Lint and I have been friends for over 10 years, and I knew this would be the first time we would actually get to hike together, so cool!

And the fact that Justa was out to support him was amazing. The plan for the day was for Justa to drive up every 3 miles or so, and we wouldn’t carry anything. Nothing. And she would be there with water, our food, oh some AMAZING breakfast…which translates to a thru-hikers DREAM.

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Walk

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Bliss

Walk, car, walk, car, and soon we saw a figure grow larger behind us, why it’s another hiker, Grapenut! He joined in on the slack pack goodness, and at one stop in the afternoon we came up upon Lint’s truck and saw an orange hat we didn’t recognize…Patches! So now we’re 4 thruhikers strong and hiking a 30 plus mile day to get to Rawlins, and then…slack pack the Great Divide Basin!

Life is good folks…life is good.

We got to town, ate junk food, found a hiker-friendly hotel, showered, and passed out. I’m with hikers!