It rained during the night. It rained HARD, but we were cozy and warm inside. The morning was still dark when we got up…if it wasn’t for the 8am luggage transfer pick-up, we might have slept in a little longer, but alas, one doesn’t want to miss the opportunity to not drag a carryon roller bag through the cobblestone streets.

Once downstairs we realized there was a breakfast spread laid out, so partook of coco puffs, yogurt, and fruit. I was on my second cup of coffee when the proprietor came in and told us we had not reserved the meal. Woops! Not speaking adequate Spanish sometimes backfires. We paid her and got on our way.

Today would be one of our shorter days because the lodging options get stark up ahead – it looks to be getting mountainous, and the towns with bookable options that accept luggage are fewer and farther apart. The cheap pilgrim hostels (or auberges) don’t accept luggage, and we didn’t really want to sleep in bunk beds with 30 other people farting and snoring all night.

We walked out into the heavy fog and it was kind of delightful because it gave everything a misty medieval feel…the legit medieval streets and bridges and crumbled ruins helped the vibe.

Even the modern influences somehow became otherworldly.

We were in quiet and green hills, and the humidity ate everything alive. Crumbled buildings were covered in moist decay; we dodged snails and slugs on the road, and fruit lay rotting everywhere. This is quite a lush area, a lushness on the edge of rot.

Mid morning we walked up a hill to find an oasis of umbrellas and coolers. This was a spot for pilgrims to relax, and at the center was a cross and a large pile of stones.

I hadn’t known what the piles of stone meant on the Camino last year, and therefore had no stone to leave. This year I brought two for me, and one for my lovely and brave friend Stacey who is going through a difficult time. According to someone else’s words:

“This is one of the Camino’s oldest and most soulful traditions. Many pilgrims bring a stone from home – something small enough to fit in a pocket, heavy enough to remind you it’s there. It represents whatever you are carrying in your heart. A regret. A grief. A fear. All that burden you have been carrying around long before you ever planned your Camino. Then, when you reach a place that feels right, you put it down. You leave it there. You walk away without it.”

I placed Stacey’s stone on the pile inbued with her “fuck cancer” burden in order to lay it to rest. She would have been walking the Portuguese Way had she not been undergoing some intense treatment right now. It was a very emotional act for me.

Minutes later the sky opened and poured so hard that it must have been a cleansing. I felt it. For her, for me. All the people who had placed stones were remembered, all are a part of this place.

I walked on and turned a corner to see a full rainbow. There were even hints of a double rainbow. It was magical. It was such a beautiful moment, and even hours later now as I write it, I can barely see through the tears.

It is such a gift to be here.

We sought shelter from another downpour in the shadow of a church’s eves and caught glimpses of our next destination, Betanzos.

Walking down the steep streets into this ancient city felt like a true step back in time. It is magnificent. The only thing that detracted from the moment was my wet and squishy socks. Betanzos has one of the best preserved old quarters in the area and was once one of the seven provinces of the Kingdom of Galicia. I’m not sure what that means, but it is as impressive as the city we walked through.

This city is also known for its famous tortilla. No, not the flat, round thing you fill with beans and cheese, but a popular Spanish dish of egg and potato. The Betanzos version is runny in the center, almost creamy. We went to Mesón Café de Segundo for one, and was quite surprised when the juice came pouring out of it when I went to cut a slice. The added chorizo inside was a spectacular addition.

Our hostel was a short way away, and since we had such a big lunch, we basically ate fruit for dinner.

I want to come back to Betanzos.