I slept well, and decided to tackle the day with gusto. I cruised up the road the past few miles to Rollins Pass, and climbed the hump of a mountain before my last 3 miles of ridgewalking for a while.

The flowers carpeted EVERYTHING! It was really beautiful. I saw elk grazing, and the day was warm, pretty freaking amazing.

I started what would be a long downhill into the trees. It’s so nice to hike in trees again! And as I expected, the mosquitos are a bit more aggressive down low, I walked a bit with my bug condom, but found they weren’t bad enough to warrant that.

Lots of marshes and water, I didn’t see any moose, but this is prime territory.

Finally I made it down to Monarch Lake and was excited for the prospect of a store that sold ice cream! But when I made it to the spot, I was told it was closed. Crushed.

I kept walking and ended up getting dumped on with rain and hail during a storm as I was hiking a ridge above Granby Lake.

I got soaked, and pushed on through a few more miles, and what do you know, that makes 30 for today. I’ll have 8 into Grand Lake tomorrow morning and will get to hang out with my Aunt Barbara for the day!

I stressed myself out yesterday feeling like I was trapped by the storms that could or could not strike when I was above treeline, so instead I walked some roads to meet up with the divide at Rollins Pass, I’ll have a bit of high ridge walking tomorrow before a long stretch begins in the trees, or the high elevations aren’t as exposed. Don’t get me wrong, I loved all the high sections, I just wish I could take more time when I’m up there…20 miles is tough to do by noon, or 1 or even 2 in challenging terrain.

So onward.

Cool sight of the day, a big bull moose crossing the road! Just like it was nobody’s business, and I took my time passing by that spot in case he was lingering near the road…I haven’t seen it, but apparently they can be quite mean.

I had a pleasant afternoon walking up closed-down forest service roads, but actually met other people out walking or biking on the roads too, that’s a nice change.

The wild roses smelled nice

The rain and bit of thunder passed overhead and since I don’t want to sleep above treeline, am camped on a green knoll just before the trees disappear. It’s quite beautiful.

I’ll read some more of my Paul Theroux book, the 22 miles today was much less tiring than the 18 miles yesterday…not all miles are created equal.

The logistics of this section is getting to me. It’s a giant mind-game with your life. Seriously! The thunder storms every afternoon and the extended EXTENSIVE and long miles above tree-line make it very hard to plan the day or make miles without killing yourself.

I was hiking by 6am this morning, essentially with 18 miles above tree line, sometimes MILES from treeline, to make it to Berthoud Pass to meet my friends from the PCT Rocketman and Solar by about 2 or 3pm. Great, but then thunderstorms are predicted this afternoon, and the clouds start amassing about 10:30 in the morning. Only about half way through I start to pick up the pace and don’t stop for breaks. At about 7 miles to go I’m worried I won’t make it with the weather and think about bailing low and walking the highway, but I decide to go for it, and make the next 1,000′ climb up up up on top of everything. It’s beautiful up there, I’m hiking as fast as I can, it starts to rain a bit, but then stops, the neighbor mountains are getting rained on good, I stay in a lucky spot and I am so thankful. I make it to the pass about 1:30 just in time to see my two friends and their two kids walk up the trail, Yes!!!

It's wonderful up here when the skies are blue!

Friends!!!!

But I am done with this stress. Exhausted. Looking ahead I’m stuck with some impossible miles above treeline with a worsening forcast. While we were in Winter Park we heard that 15 people got struck by lightening trying to summit a 14er near by. FIFTEEN. AT 11:30AM. I’m not ok with that.

I am due to meet my Aunt in Grand Lake in 2 1/2 days. 55 miles, no problem, right? Ummm, not according to the map. So I’m going to get creative, hike north and do what I feel safe over the next day or two. Geez. I hear the terrain drops below treeline soon, I mean I’m all for lovely ridgewalks, but leave the lightening at home.

Anyway, I met Rocketman, Solar and their ADORABLE kids and they suggested going to Winter Park for food…gee, let me think…YES!! It was so good to catch up with them and meet (I’m going to mess up the spelling….) their kids Kiele and Kahlo, both born after the PCT. Their lives are busy with parenting, but it seems like they find time to get out and more importantly get their kids out hiking too. Great time catching up with some awesome hikers.

I bought a little more food and we had a second meal while enjoying music from the near-by blues fest, and finally I made it back up to the pass where I camped not too far in. The trail goes right up…don’t have much choice!

Tomorrow I get creative and get myself north.

I woke up tired, again at 4:15am, and knew I had some challenging miles ahead of me. Climb this 14er and then make it as far as I can up the next mountains…these Colorado miles are tough!

The ridge

I set off at first light climbing up towards Argintine Pass. I first started to hate this route when the few remaining snow chutes on the climb up were frozen solid…and i had to either pick my way down or up the talus to get around it, or go through it. At one point I had my hiking pole shortened, one without a snow basket, and was futily trying to use it like an ice axe as I tried to step gingerly on the half steps that had frozen in the snow. “One step at a time, one step at a time,” was my mantra. Just keep going.

No likey

I knew the ridgewalking up ahead was sketch too, and started to freak myself out. “One step at a time, one step at a time.”

The going was fine until Edwards Mountain when i found myself on a series of knife’s edges. I slowly made my way around, NOT enjoying this section. Thanks goodness i had decent weather. I was all about to skip the summit of Gray’s Peak, the highest point on the CDT, but when i saw the hard part was over when i reached the climbers trail, i went ahead and went up.

Looking back. No thank you.

Yep, on top of a mountain!

Time to go down, down, down. I had a long road walk out to Herman Gluch and my goal was to score some trail magic from one of the hundreds of tourists out to climb the mountain too. (Easy access from Denver and I70)

Look at all the peeps

Then a car pulled over saying something about backpacking and before i knew it he was handing me 2 cold beers, tortillas and beans he had just made. YUM! Thanks Kyle!

Walking walking walking. My legs are tired. I am tired.

I attempt to take a nap along a bike path we walk for a while, but the mosquitos wont leave me alone and im too lazy to get out muy bug net.

Walking. I walk up to Herman Gulch and start climbing. Legs are tired. Finally i make camp before the trail goes above treeline again. Peacing out to the green meadows, riotous wildflowers, and cascading creek.

Sleep is soon.

I set my alarm for 4:15, wanting to get an early start to give myself as much time above tree level as possible before any weather would move in after 12pm. I started by headlamp just about 5am, and soon could see the path in the new day.

The going was realitively snow-free and the dawning day made for some dramatic views. I just can’t really put the day into words, one because I’m so tired, and two, because you just have to be there!

Here are a few photos to illustrate a bit of what I’m talking about:

The going got a little rougher towards the end of the 15+ miles of ridgewalking, I found myself on a knife’s edge stepping gingerly down slopes of tallus, an altogether frightening proposition if it had been anything but sunny and pleasent like it was.

I was getting tired. The constant climbing and descending of peaks at 12 & 13,000′ was exhausting. I rounded the final peak, Santa Fe, and could see Grays Mountain that I would be climbing tomorrow. The way down was blocked by a fatty cornice that I didn’t want to deal with, so I took the long way around, walking through the little community of Montizuma.

I found I had more miles on the dirt road than I wanted, all I really wanted to do was lay down and close my eyes. I some how made it close to tomorrow’s climb up to 14,000′ and have a cozy place to camp. It’s not even 6pm, but I think I might go to bed. Tired.

Today would be a short day. If I was going to have a chance of doing this next section of high-elevation ridgewalking and the summiting of the highest point of the CDT, a 14er or 14ers (Grays & Torreys), I would have to time the weather right. So I am camped on the shoulder of Georgia Pass, and will wake up early tomorrow to get up on the 15+ miles of exposed ridgewalking so I can get down before the forcasted storms, and then camp at the base of Grays Peak for an early morning summit of that one, and from there I’ll have to figure out the other above elevation terrain the next day…

I met a ton of other hikers today, lots of Colorado Trail hikers and then the first of the CDT flip floppers, Scat Man and Rafiki. We had a good chat mid-trail and I found they had been the first to hike the section I was preparing to do, and most of it was doable, a few sketchy spots. Well, I’ve had my fair share of sketchy spots, and it all sounds like something I can handle. I was happy to hear their report, their main concern being the strong winds they encountered. I think my mornings should be calmer, so I may just have a perfect window (minus the afternoon storms, but with only a 10 & 20% chance, that’s pretty good this time of year).

Scatman and Rafiki

I also met my first bike packer of the Colorado Trail. Wendy is a bad-ass woman biking the trail, to me it could almost be harder than hiking it…although the downhills are probably pretty nice.

Wendy

Not too many views today, but pleasent walking and I saw my first Columbine!!

I got to tree-line just as a storm was about to unleash some fury, and had my tarp up in a little grotto of trees just in time. I’ll have a long afternoon to read, nap, eat, and read some more.

I lay in bed till 7! Till 7! Oh the luxury!

Teresa and I had a lazy morning, and then headed into Golden to the CDTC office, but not before a stop to Great Harvest where her good friend Jim who owned the store hooked me up with taste after taste of deliciousness.

I did my resupply and by that time we met up with Peter (CDTC magic worker) for lunch at an indian buffet. Mmmmmm, buffet. I got a beautiful new Montbell Jacket to replace the one I burned in a recent unfortunate accident with a former stove, and had a great time catching up.

By 3 I was back on the trail and soaking in the goodness from the last 24 hours. I didn’t have it in me to make big miles in the hot and humid afternoon, and when I came across Colorado Trail hikers Just Dave and Zero Zero, I had to stop and chat for a bit (I admit I dissuaded them from going over the cornice route…reinforced with photos!) and then at the bottom of the hill met Naked and Afraid, a lovely CT hiker from Lousiana out with her dog. We chatted for a bit too, and then I figured I should walk a bit more…but not much.

I’m camped somewhere flat with trees that won’t fall on me if the wind picks up (there are storms and wind due tonight). Sometimes it’s just enough to know you are sleeping where trees will most likely not fall on you during the night. It’s the little things out here.

My new jacket has fleece lined pockets...FLEECE!

Me and this stick are ready for the rain

I cowboy camped again, how marvelous! I love being able to look at the night sky if i wake up in the middle of the night, and since I was in a river canyon didn’t see what most Coloradans would have a unique opportunity to witness: the northern lights! I’m not sure how long the solar flare will make them visible here, but I will do my best to look out for them this week…if it doesn’t rain too much at night.

I was up and walking at about 6am…Copper Mountain was within reach and I debated with myself if I was going to stop in for a second breakfast. I’d be making it to Breckenridge today to meet Teresa, did I really need to stop at Copper too? Well, when I made it down the ski lifts and saw how close the buildings were of course I had to go down. I found an open coffee shop and had a breakfast sandwich and cinnamon roll to go with my second cup of coffee for the day. Just what I would need to help fuel the big climb out of there.

Now there is a major route choice here at Copper. The official CDT goes over the 10th Mountain Range and down into the valley with Breck before going up again for a bunch of ridgewalking at 13,000′ and up and climbs the 14er Grays peak. Its a bit longer and could still have considerable snow in places. The Silverthorne alternate is a bit shorter, has a few passes over 12,000′, but is generally the choice to make in higher snow levels. Most hikers that I’ve heard of having been taking the Silverthorne, but after talking to Teresa, I thought I would try the Grays-Torres route. Why not? There were a few places I could go low if I needed to, so I thought I would go for it. Go big or go home!

The climb up out of Copper was a long one, but upon reaching the ridge and having almost no snow I was a bit frightened to see the huge cornice hanging over the north side of the ridgetop. There was one set of footprints that I could see and they had gone up and over one spot on the cornice where it wasn’t hanging per say…it was about a 10′ drop and then side slope to a bit of dry ground about 30′ away. Yikes. I went to look at it, retreated, went out, tried to start, retreated, again and again, and finally put away one of my poles so I could have one hand free, used the other pole which had lost its snow basket as an ice axe of sorts (I could dig it in to self arrest if I needed to) and turned around to kick steps in backward as I inched my way down the cornice.

And I made it! Whew! On dry ground, going the opposite way the trail travels down the mountain, I had to reevaluate how I was going to get out of this. The easiest thing would be to follow the dry ground, which I could connect patches of dirt and rock down the drainage, so I worked my way south and down, and upon looking at my maps of the surrounding areas saw that if I could walk the drainage out enough I would meet up with a trail, which would then get me to some roads.

And the walking was actually pretty nice once I got out of the snow. There weren’t too many downed trees, and the going was pretty easy, just follow the creek! I popped out on a road that wasn’t on my map, hmmm, it was most likely a get-back road for the Breckenridge ski resort I was near, and turned on the CDT Guthook app, fortunately that map had the road on it, and I found my exit strategy. Turning south I walked the road out, eventually reaching a neighborhood perched on the side of the mountain, and found highway 9 where I hitched a ride into town with Tim, a nice bloke who picked up the crazy girl.

One chalupa and Dos Equis later and my belly was full and I felt a million miles away from that cornice on the ridge. I could see it all from town, I kept glancing up and marveling that I had really come over that. Man, the things thru-hikers do. This could be a premonition for what was to come for the route I chose, but I’m confident I can get myself where I need to go, and am not afraid to retreat if I need to. We’ll see!!

Teresa came a few hours later and we drove off to her place near Conifer, CO. But of course we had to stop for pizza first! We had a great time and tonight I’m tucked away in her uber comfortable bed in the guest room, a most welcome reprieve from the ground for a night!

I had entered snow again at the end of the day yesterday, and found a dry spot in the midst of soaking meadows, slushy snow and streaming creeks. The mosquitos wouldn’t leave me alone so I sat in my bug condom most of the night and cowboy camped with it covering my head…it worked perfectly!

The night hadn’t done much to stiffen up the snow, but no matter, FINALLY a lot of the snow is consolidated, so you can walk on top half the time, and the other half is still slushy, but not very deep anymore. It makes the travel much quicker but still dicy from time to time.

In the first two miles of the day I was finally out of the snow, and had some really pleasant forest walking. The tread was mild, and I just filled up on some water when I spied what looked like a cooler. Could it be? Could it really be???? Trail magic? Something so pervasive as the cooler full of sodas on the AT and PCT were non-existent on the CDT….until this one!!!!!!! Rootbeer, lots of kinds of sodas, a trail register. Amazing! I forgot to look at the Trail Angel’s names, but thank you, whoever you are!

Then I thought I would hike to a bench I remember near Camp Hale, I remember it because of a sign stating this segment of trail is maintained by NASA and the FBI. What????? Anyway, made it there for lunch then dropped down to the old training ground for the Mountain division of the military years ago (still live munitions, careful!)

The climb up to Kokomo Pass was long and hot, but I made it expecting nothing but a sea of snow on top, but to my surprise, it was over half melted out, and didn’t look that daunting at all.

The next few hours passed as I made my way through and around the snow patches, and I found a quaint little spot to camp about 5 miles before Copper Mountain. All and all a good day on the divide!

Lost the post!