Ahhhh, ending the day with french chocolates and wine…where am I? This message was brought to you by the incredibly generous people around me…especially since I’m staying at a stranger’s parent’s house in Lander. Ok, not a stranger anymore, my friend Kelly’s cousin’s friend’s (Matt) parent’s house…she hooked me up with Matt today and we just had a fabulous dinner with his wife Chelsie and their little daughter Genevieve.

But back to this morning. As with many mornings in the hotels, I sleep in, just incredibly happy to be in a bed, and finally rouse myself with thoughts of coffee. I hit the continental breakfast and got back into bed for the next 4 hours…check out isn’t until 11!

The day after that passed quickly, I said goodbye to Lint, Justa, Grapenut, and Patches who were off to discover another chunk of trail, but I really wanted to recover just a tad more before entering the next challenging section…the Wind River Range!

To say I’m excited about the next stretch of trail is an understatement. I’ve heard about these mountains for years, and what I learned from Matt was that it’s one of the most remote ranges in the lower 48…bring it! AND it’s also the start of grizzly country. I’m trying not to get anxious about that yet…and we’ll see what really happens. I have a bear bell and bear spray (I’ve been told to keep it HANDY), so we’ll see.

I got a pizza for lunch and spent a few hours lazing around before heading over to meet Matt. Great peeps are never hard to find in an outdoor town…and before I went to his house stopped by the Wild Iris outdoor store where I met Tom and Laurie Jungst (a bad-ass ski mountaineer!!) where I spent the next hour talking trail. I also met Vogue (AT 2005) who worked there, we had a great time! Tom and Laurie are going to take me back to the trail in the morning, and when I got a chance I googled Tom and found how truly bad-ass of a skier he is (lots of ski movies & ran a company with Conrad Anker!)…so cool!

Now I have a whole house to chillax in and a bed with my name on it. The trail provides!

The glowing horizon beckoned this morning, but I had a hard time rousing myself…no matter, these guys are not early risers, and even after I was up and drinking my coffee they slept. Its pretty interesting to see all these different hiking styles out here. As much as I love hiking with others, sometimes it’s hard to give up your method for anothers…but since our time together is coming to a close soon I happily hike what this crew wants to hike. Onward!

This was the Oregon Trail!

The day was more rolling vast tracts of land. As we wandered in and out of the rises and draws I tried to soak it all in since the Winds were getting closer and closer. Soon I wouldn’t have these vistas, instead I would have towering granite peaks and high alpine lakes, Yes! I love all the diversity out here. Just as you are getting tired of one type of landscape, here comes its polar opposite to mix things up.

Justa was meeting us at South Pass City, which really isnt a city…it’s a historic site, with many of the old city’s attractions placed behind glass so the modern day man can marvel at the days past. It’s also a place where hikers can send themselves maildrops, and in my case, a place I put on my blog as a mail drop, and did I get mail!!!!!!

Thanks!!!!!!!

Thank you my dear readers! I was blown away by the goodness contained in cardboard which included:
-chocolates from FRANCE from my Peace Corps friend Christine!
-chips, goodies, and a little reminder of our Jennifer Connely movie marathon from my ladies in Bend Brooke & Adryon…they even included Sparrow Bakery cookies!!!!
-a box of letters and coffee and yumminess from my fellow board members at Art in the High Desert, I’ll be missing the show at the end of August in Bend, but they have me covered out here!
-delights from my parent’s friends Pete & Verona, and a little rum to ease the aching legs!
-socks, mini packets of deliciousness and more from fellow hiker Bethany (Gloves) who knows first hand what a hiker would need out here

All of this comes at a very good time, because I want to:

Hiker Hunger!

Ok, after all of these eats we decided to walk the next 3 miles to highway 28 where Justa would drive around, meet us, and take us into Lander – about 35 miles away.

I didn’t want to hike anymore, my knees have been ACHING from all the high miles, but I knew this would make getting back to the trail MUCH easier since I wouldn’t be with the Justa-mobile after this.

I decided my body needed a day off, and the rest of the crew would be hiking out the next day.

We made a bee-line to Cowfish, the brewery and steak house in town, had an AMAZING burger, and then checked into a hotel down the road.

Time to go comotose.

I slept well on the hard ground. Most nights I get a full night’s sleep, no matter that I’m sleeping on a 1/4 inch of foam on the earth, I am tired enough.

It looked like a cross country section in today’s walking would be really difficult for Justa to get around…the surrounding roads just didn’t line up with where the trail was going, so we begrudgingly packed up our bags, we would backpack the next 60 miles…but not before breakfast!!

We had an amazing masterpiece scramble by Justa, and with full bellies and long miles ahead, we set off.

And the sky does not dissapoint! We cruised the surface of the earth and scared up lots of antelope, wild horses, mule deer, and even bunnies. What a day!

At about 30 miles I started to slow down, and by the time we were looking for camp and not finding anything in the lumpy, rocky, sagebrushy landscape, finally pitched in the road. “Road” being a fairly generous term.

Food!

We woke up when the sky took on a brilliant sheen in the east. I made some coffee and we decided to hike a few miles to where Justa would drive ahead and make us breakfast…what!?! Wow!!!

And yes, it really was that good. We would hike and Justa would meet us a bit down the road where we had coolers full of cold drinks and a full array of snacks awaited us. This is living.

We laughed from time to time at how decadent this all was, and reflecting on my almost solo 3 months of hiking, loved at how the trail had turned that on its head. People! Food! Friends! Turning a challenging section into a blast!

By 8pm or so we had gone just over 37 miles, my longest day ever on any trail. And yep, it meant hiking all day, but we also got in some great lounging around too.

Justa shined again at making sure we were full and sated (bloody marys, really!)

Lovely day.

I woke from the depths of the Days Inn bed…this much comfort makes it hard to get up in the morning! I put the little hotel coffee pot to work and curled up in bed with my phone; it’s a common occurance when you get a bunch of hikers together where there is wifi available, to see everyone absorbed in their little screen…me included. One of the modern signs of trail life.

After a lazy morning we all headed to City Market to buy groceries for the 120 mile stretch of the Great Divide Basin. We would all hike together during this section, as Justa drives the route and cooks for us. What!?! How did I get so lucky?

This is Lint’s triple triple hike, and he wants to do it big for what might possibly be his last long trail, at least the last for a while. Having Justa out here meeting him with good company, food, and beer had put a spring in his step…and I’m thrilled to get to hang with them for a few days! I won’t be keeping up the 35-40+ miles per day that he plans to cover, but for this dry long exposed section it’s perfect to challenge myself with the bigger days. Why not? There’s a hot meal and cold beer involved!

We hit an AMAZING Thai buffet on the way out of town, and with stomachs full and legs rested, we walked out of town into the great wide open.

We covered about 21 miles this afternoon, skirting the highway for a while, and then heading straight off into the nothingness. (there’s actually not too much nothingness out here, we’ve seen lots of antelope, wild horses, lizards, cows, snakes, bunnies…beneath the scrubby brush there is a whole world teaming out here).

We ended the day when we found Justa on a little overlook that would make a perfect campspot. We relaxed in our camp chairs and inhaled the delicious dinner she made us.

I’m so lucky!

I woke knowing I would see Lint soon, and as I hit the highway and turned on my phone at the pass, sent him a text and continued walking down the road. At the same time I noticed a truck parked just ahead, and as soon as I got a bit closer, noticed a tent next to it.

Could it be? No…wait, yes, it’s Lint and Justa!

They were camped right around the corner from where I was. He had hiked until about 9pm and she had been there, and I woke them up as I came rushing in to the truck.

Yeah girl!

Yes!!!!

They woke up and we reunited…Lint and I have been friends for over 10 years, and I knew this would be the first time we would actually get to hike together, so cool!

And the fact that Justa was out to support him was amazing. The plan for the day was for Justa to drive up every 3 miles or so, and we wouldn’t carry anything. Nothing. And she would be there with water, our food, oh some AMAZING breakfast…which translates to a thru-hikers DREAM.

Walk

Walk

Bliss

Walk, car, walk, car, and soon we saw a figure grow larger behind us, why it’s another hiker, Grapenut! He joined in on the slack pack goodness, and at one stop in the afternoon we came up upon Lint’s truck and saw an orange hat we didn’t recognize…Patches! So now we’re 4 thruhikers strong and hiking a 30 plus mile day to get to Rawlins, and then…slack pack the Great Divide Basin!

Life is good folks…life is good.

We got to town, ate junk food, found a hiker-friendly hotel, showered, and passed out. I’m with hikers!

What a day. A lot happens in 30 miles on a trail: terrain changes, you leave mountains behind, trees, you enter a land of wind and sky.

Wyoming!

From climbing Bridger Peak this morning, to walking across balds with grasses rippling in the wind, to watching endless miles of space unfold, it was a good day.

I met some very generous folks today. As I was walking a two-track road an ATV with 2 couples came up behind me, they were headed just around the bend, and when I caught up with them a few minutes later, they invited me to lunch! Yes!

Gene, Debbie, Kim and Andy all lived in Rawlings and knew the area real well. It was a pleasure chatting over turkey sandwiches, cherries, and home-made cookies! AND I was offered a place to stay when I get to town…Rawlings is just a few days away. So great to have met them!

So I’ve been texting with Lint, my friend and fellow CDT hiker, and it sounds like he’s right behind me….I would love to hike some days with him, and as his daily pace is 35+ miles, I’m not sure how long I can! But he’s planning to get to Rawlings tomorrow (!) so I pushed the miles a bit so that I could hike the 32ish miles from where I’m camped to town as well. See, his girlfriend Justa is supporting him with his truck…and he’s thinking of slack packing the Great Divide Basin…and that would mean good food and cold beer at night…I should at least try big mile days!

Anyway, about 5pm I reached a big road, yet empty for miles in either direction. I started walking and the wind would just not let up. As I had left the trees behind I wasn’t sure where I would camp, it would definitely be challenging in this section.

Benefits to rain

Getting to town tomorrow night is looking more like a good thing. I was caught in a heavy and extremely windy downpour for a few minutes. All I could do was crouch down in the dirt by the road and brace myself against the wind with my umbrella, almost getting blown over a few times.

Oh Wyoming!

I found a little grove of trees just and I was reaching peak fatigue. I can see a deer or antelope made a bed where I pitched my tarp. When in doubt, look for where the animals sleep. You know it’s probably pretty protected.

Ahhh, parmasan noodles, oreos, and more oreos. Good day all around.

No rain last night! And there was no condensation or dew on anything! I was optimistic when I put my semi-dry shoes and socks on, maybe I would have dry feet today.

Nope

The wettest spring/summer in Colorado/Wyoming history continues. Beautiful high alpine meadows are beautiful high alpine bogs. Trails are streams. Finally after a few hours I put on my chacos to walk through all the water, at least when they are dry, they are dry. When wet, wet. There are a few days of sun in the forecast, but my dryness levels will depend on how much these Wyoming mountains like to hold on to their water.

We’ve entered a granite section, the white, pink, and red stones glint up at you in the sun, but this rock is not porous, and many pools and lakes are hiding among the tall grasses and many hues of the flowers.

The going was beautiful, and I also got a taste of the Wyoming wind I’ve heard so much about. At one point I was so cold I had to dig out my mittens…and I later heard the wind chill had been in the 20s. No wonder I was cold!

Wind chill of 20s in July, great divide basin looms on the horizon, should be an interesting month!

Still not seeing any hikers and I know people have to be close…

I got to Battle Pass (hwy 70) today hoping to hitch 14ish miles into Encampment to resupply for another few days to Rawlins, but the first 45 minutes or so only 2 cars went by me. Wow, this could take a while. I was sitting on the side of the highway, having determined that I can see down into the western valley to spot any cars that decided to come up this way, when some ATVs and a camper drove up from a dirt road. A ride!

I was dropped off at the Mangy Moose for lunch, a big fat greasy bacon cheeseburger with fries and beer. Merca!

I toddled over to the store across the street and bought all the junk food I think I would need for another stretch…there just wasn’t much else to be had.

I got a ride back and from trail to trail it was a 3 hour town stop…not bad! I’m camped not far from the road, but far enough, having an early day and eating my oreos.

Wyoming, so far so good!

I could see some blue sky overhead when I woke from my dank dark spot in the woods. Yes! After a day of rain and a night in a wet tarp, everything was a bit damp.

Well, putting on wet shoes I made my way through soaking wet meadows…the grasses negating any dryness from the night.

Note to self, when there is a sign telling you to take a road detour because a bridge is out…do that. Don’t think its probably fine and keep walking on the trail.

This section was a pain not just because of the washed out bridge (fording it I got myself wet to the waist), but the MANY MANY blowdowns that hadn’t been cleared in all the time that the bridge has been out. I did make it through, but walking that road would have been so much easier.

Then I got a spot of sunlight! I threw my pack down and started hanging a tree with my wet stuff to try and dry out a bit.

Then some walking. The day was lovely, the landscape looked more and more like Wyoming! Well, not really, I didn’t know what Wyoming looked like since I’ve never been.

At lunch I met Michael, a biker who was hitting a few passes on the CDT where the trail is on an old roadbed. He apparently bikes all over the world, and like to bike up to mountain passes. Cool!

The afternoon brought more rain and lightening, I tried to stay out of it as much as I could. And then….

The Border!

I’m in Wyoming baby!

Thanks for the booze Paige!

The hiking after that actually did change, I started seeing CDT signage, lots of it! Yes! Northern Colorado was pretty austere with marking the trail, but Wyoming…I’m impressed.

I made camp in a sunny spot and dried some more stuff out. It was a very nice day and I will sleep for the first time in this lovely state.

It rained. It rained most of the night and I woke to rain, because of which I slept in about an hour. When I finally got going the day was misty with swirling clouds of rain and darkness. I walked enjoying the sight.

There goes that new shoe feel.

Later in the morning the trail ridgewalks a bit, but by then the rain was a driving soaking torrent that turned to big, fat, wet snowflakes for a while. SNOWFLAKES!

I set up my shelter for lunch so I could relax, and of course the sun decides to come out. The glow was brief though, and my lovely afternoon walk down three island trail was dry for the most part although still with overcast. I’ll have to come back here some day, I like this terrain alot. The creek I walked down reminded me of creeks Kirk and I would explore at home.

The rain came back and I was desperate to get out of it and picked a terrible place for a camp, but I’m already here and in my sleeping bag so I’ll make the best of it. I hope there is less rain tomorrow. (Oh, and I get to Wyoming too!!!!!)