(The CDTC needs your help! See this link for more info…thanks Wired for setting this page up!
http://www.walkingwithwired.com/2015/09/weve-got-to-help-cdt.html?m=1)

I set my alarm last night in hopes of getting up early and hiking the 26 miles to McDonald Pass early enough to get into Helena at a decent time…this is the first time I’ve woken up to an alarm in a long, long time. The days are getting shorter and the sun rising later and later each day…where once a 5am wakeup would find me at daybreak, now translates to a 6:30ish start.

I walked into the early morning and soon came upon another tent…Medicare (Mary??? again, so bad at remembering trail names) a 74 year old section hiker out to do a big chunk of the CDT, having already hiked NM, CO & WY…no excuses people! If 74 year-old Mary can do it, you can do it!

I hiked in the glow of the early morning and took just a few breaks, fueled by my desire to make it to the highway in decent time.

A lot of the late morning and early afternoon were along dirt roads. I passed a bunch of new housing developments, while the developments were nestled deep in the surrounding wilderness, with all the recent fires I knew such places were ripe for destruction the minute something in the area gets struck by lightning. I would love to live in such a place, but the vulnerability seems so great…

I was back in the trees and on the trail this afternoon, and felt tired. My feet ached and my body was slowly dragged through the trees by those puffy feet. Tired.

I made it to the highway before 4pm and made myself a sign in hopes it would help my chances of getting to town. (Signs seem to always help)

I was picked up my a lifetime local and even though it was out of his way, he dropped me off downtown. I was going to stay with Shaggy, a PCT friend from 2006, and knew he lived near downtown, but first, I saw a brewery, and what do you know, a hiker in front! I went over and found 5 thru hikers inside, having arrived just before I did. I shared a pint and walked over to Shaggy’s place where he was preparing the grill for a brat and salmon dinner…YUM!

We reminisced over trail tails, and talked a lot about the changes on the CDT. He had hiked in 2007 with a bunch of 2006 PCT friends, and it was awesome to tell stories and reconnect.

Shaggy and his wife Lauren hiked the PCT together in 2012, and we had lots of stories to tell. I love thru-hikers!!!!

As I was still in my sleeping bag and sipping my coffee I looked up to see two hikers on the trail, Day Man and La La (I had met them breifly a few weeks ago as they were going into Lima and I was returning to the trail). They were on a mission to get to Helena, so we chatted for just a minute and they took off.

Packed up and hiking, I soon came to the water source I had been counting on as I had finished the last dregs at breakfast. All I saw were scuzzy mud puddles. No matter, there was a spring in another mile or so, so I kept on hiking. When I realized I should have arrived at the spring I looked at my phone to see that I was apparently on a new section of trail that wasn’t reflected on Guthook’s app. The spring was back on what must be the old trail, or an old road. Since i had no idea if this new trail had any water sources I backtracked and started down the road. Shoot! The spring was another muddy puddle. I scooped up just a little bit of water to drink in an emergency, and set off for the next water source, three miles down the trail.

There was more new trail, but if the water was going to be this iffy I decided to follow the data on Guthook so I would be sure of my mileage and water sources. I’m sure it’s very nice trail, but I had also heard there was a bit of misleading signage in this area, so didn’t want to risk hiking it.

The next source was a spring fed water tank and I had some nice cool water at last. I would have to start being conservative again if some of the sources weren’t drinkable.

Most of the morning followed the old roads and I climbed and descended gentle grades. I took lunch in a shaded spot near the trail and while I was napping heard approaching steps for the second time today. Two new northbounders! Sam and Splint (???not sure I got his name right). They too looked like they were on a mission to get to Helena, and I wondered if I was the only one not really concerned with time or milage…maybe it’s just that I’ve had a lot of time off lately.

Smoked Salmon courtesy of my friend Allgood!

Crack Bars (chocolate and amazing) from the awesome Aimee

They continued on and I packed up for my afternoon of hiking. I didn’t end up seeing any of the 4 hikers again, so I guess they made some good progress today.

Lots of tree-bound hiking this afternoon, a few sub-par water sources, and when I passed a nice cold trickle I decided to fill up to capacity just in case of what I might find ahead. I listened to more of my audio book and just bumbled along at my own pace.

I walked until almost 7:30 tonight, which is later than usual for me, but I was not enamored with the camping options, so kept going. As it is I’m settled in a uniform forest of pine trees, what I must imagine is an old burn area, all the trees the same size and densly spaced, crowding out eachother and ensuring none will get big or thrive.

I ate a huge helping of dinner, washed down with some gummies. I’m full and getting sleepy. I’ll get in another chapter or two of my ebook, The Goldfinch, and then close my eyes to another day.

Another morning waking up in a bed…soon I would have countless mornings to wake up like this; I can’t help but be excited by the prospect.

I packed up my backpack, and went upstairs for some coffee and breakfast. Laurie would be taking me back to the trail, but not before stopping by the Oboz office, my shoe sponsor for the hike. Their designer/product developer, Derek, had actually worked with Tom for many years, and I had emailed with him, but this would be my first time meeting him. We found their office and had a great chat. I’ve really enjoyed working with Oboz this year, not just because they make a fantastic shoe (the best one I’ve worn on a thru-hike so far), but because they recognize thru hikers as their target market, something other shoe companies are reluctant to do. This small company is the real deal and I was stoked to visit their office.

Derek at Oboz

Then we were on the road; back in Butte I picked up one last package, a week of meals from my new sponsor Backpackers Pantry, mailed off a package to myself up the trail and one home, and before I could barely finish my fries and frosty (fast food attack), I was back on the trail and walking north.

The lovely Laurie

I walked dirt roads for the afternoon, dodging cows (at one point they started running towards me instead of away, what!?) and listening to my new audio book, an autobiography by Oliver Sacks, who had just passed away.

It was a pleasent day, a bit cooler than it had been, and with a view! The rain had washed a lot of the smoke away, and the air was deliciously clean.

Camp is back up on the divide, and dinner is devine.

I woke up to rain, rain! We need this moisture so badly, where once earlier in the trip I may have cursed the insessent rain, now I love it. Oh yes, please rain all day!

It didn’t rain all day, but the shower did clean the air a bit and gave me hope for relief from the fires…every little bit helps.

It was a lazy morning, I went upstairs to find Tom and Laurie making lattes in a beautiful expresso machine…hmmmm, maybe I need an expresso machine?? We had a huge breakfast scramble and then I went back downstairs to sort all my gifted gummies, cookies, maps and more for the next week.

Cody (their dog) and I took a short nap, oh the luxury of rest days!

Later Laurie and I went to visit Tom at his shop, he is a machinest and was busy making parts for Chums, one of his clients (and one of my new sponsors!). I took a tour of his shops; I’ve never seen injection molding before, it was fascinating.

Then we went to lunch in town and ran by a movie store to find something to watch tonight. Laurie and I spent a few hours looking at lightweight gear…seems I may have sparked an interest! They weren’t familiar with a lot of the ultralight gear available on the market now, so I gave her a big list of folks to check out. I would be thrilled to inspire some solo backpacking adventures! Go Laurie!!!

We finished the night watching our movie and snacking (Aimee, they LOVED the crack bars, I couldn’t resist opening them before I got on the trail) and I went to bed marveling that I had just met Tom and Laurie a month before. It feels like we’ve been friends for a long time; I’ve loved getting to know them better and the whole weekend has felt like a fun vacation…heck at this point the CDT feels like a vacation! Guess I’m doing what I love and love what I’m doing.

I couldn’t linger in my hotel room this morning, I had to go meet Tom & Laurie! The couple I met in Lander last month lived in Bozeman, and had offered to come pick me up and take me into town for the weekend, how could I say no to that! I had arranged to meet them where the highway meets interstate 90, about 9 miles away, at 10am. So, I packed up and was out and walking the dark streets of Anaconda before 7am.

I passed a McDonalds and couldn’t resist the magnetic pull of cheap food…bacon, egg, and cheese biscuit? Coffee and a strawberry/banana smoothy? Yes please.

The smokestack from the old smelter loomed over the road as I walked, giving off an “eye of Sauron” feel.

I had reception, so called my folks and Kirk on the walk; might as well multi-task!

Just about 10am I rolled up to the intersection where Laurie would pick me up. Great timing as I was only there a few minutes when she arrived. We had a great time chatting as she drove to the Butte post office where I would retrieve what ended up to be a whole slew of packages from friends and family (my second to last mail drop of the trail).

Cody presides over the goods

I was blown away by all the love! Crack bars and gummies from friends Aimee & Tomato, cookies and a chapter of her soon to be published book from Speedstick, snacks and meals and more dark chocolate cheesecake from my awesome ladies Brooke & Adryon, some healthy eats (and cheetos) from my Mom and Dad, a 5lb bag!! of gummies and more homemade Kalua from Pete and Verona, smoked salmon from Allgood (that he caught himself!!!), new shoes from Oboz, a new lifeproof case from Lifeproof, and some sweet new leather hiking sandals from Orox Leather Co. – a new company I had met at the OR Show. Yummmmmm, thanks everyone!!!! I feel very spoiled.

When Laurie and I got to Bozeman, i took a quick shower, and we all rallied (her nephew and niece in law were visiting too) for a showing of Meru, the mountaineering film featuring local Conrad Anker. Anker was there to introduce the film, and as he was friends with Tom and Laurie (old climbing buddies) I got a first hand introduction! Wow!!!!!

Tom, Conrad, and me

After the movie (amazing by the way, make sure you see it on the big screen if you get the chance) we went to dinner with another couple, Karen and John – whom I had also met in Lander – where I proceeded to eat a delectable bacon wrapped meatloaf dish…such a wonderful time with these fascinating and generous folks. This trail has truly provided me the opportunity to meet some incredible people.

Eat all the things!

By the time we were done it was hiker midnight, and I soon retired to another real bed. This is the life!

So smokey. The smattering of lightening we got yesterday had me a bit on edge as I walked, would I walk into a new fire? The smoke was so thick my imagination ran away from me during the morning, but eventually I had to stop thinking about it and just walk. I do have to say it’s hard to have that easy joyful feeling in the mountains when there is so much smoke and you are worried about not getting caught in an inferno.

Those worries didn’t take away from the brilliant view of Goat Flats though, I hugged a steep wall as I walked a narrow trail cut into the mountain, hearing elk bugles below for the first time. Dropping into Storm Lake, the smoke seemed to get thicker, but no flames, just my imagination running away with me.

By the time I had hiked to another set of lakes, Twin Lakes, I actually got service on my phone and immediately looked up the fire incident map to see about any new fires. Alas, nothing was close despite the thick smoke. Phew.

I soon joined an old road and walked quickly through more old burns and the foothills of the Divide. I would spend the afternoon walking along hwy 1 into Anaconda…it was fairly busy, but a scenic walk, and I didn’t mind the pavement miles all too much. I had planned to stay in the campground in town, but upon arriving I lost my willpower to my fatigue and dirt covered body, and ended up checking in to the Celtic Inn, a few rooms above an irish pub. Great decision! It was cheap, simple, and clean, and I met some truly interesting and generous people in the pub below. I learned all about Anaconda’s status as a superfund site due to the giant smelter which processed the tons of copper pulled from Butte’s nearby open pit mine; I met a women called to come to town from the east coast to practice Reiki and help heal the town the best she could; I met kind, funny, and generous folks who all thought I was a little bit crazy…

I retired early, a real bed! It was a relief to be out of the smoke for the night.

I had a curious deer harassing me all night, other than the fact that he didn’t seem scared of me in the slightest, I guess I was grateful he was around because that meant no bigger preditors were lurking!

As I was almost done packing up in the morning, G Funk came around the corner. He had camped a short distance back, and it was good to see him again. I finished packing up as he hiked on, I knew I would see him again soon, we often leapfrog each other on the trail or take breaks together…and sure enough when I reached the top of the first climb he was just starting down the other side.

Top of the second climb of the day

We had A TON of climbing today…it was something like 6 major climbs from start to finish; none of them were super steep, but many were long and drawn out. We took lunch at the beautiful Warren Lake, at the top of one such climb. The water was surrounded by cliffs and pines, and was one of the more scenic views of the section.

Warren Lake

Of course the trail whet down again, and then up where I found almost at the top of Cutthroat Pass that thunderheads had formed. I began to walk quickly to the top of the pass so I could drop down to the other side. Rain started, the first rain we’ve had in a while, all the while thunder sounding in the distance. I hope this doesnt mean more fires!

The storm was short lived though, and soon I was walking under blue skies once again. Phew.

At the top of Rainbow Pass I found I had reception and talked to Kirk for a few minutes before starting down the switchbacks on the other side.

Rainbow Pass

I had been planning on camping at a small lake nearby, but the smoke seemed to be getting thicker and thicker. One, the smoke likes to settle in the valleys for the night, and two, maybe the lightening did start something new? I looked at my map and decided to hike a few miles further to a higher spot that would be more out of the smoke, but would also offer somewhere to go in case there was a fire. Up! On the rocky mountains!

I found camp just shy of a saddle in a clump of trees right at the Anaconda cut off route that I’ll be taking in the morning. Lets hope there are no new fires, everyone has enough as it is!

The moon was bright last night, but a thick layer of smoke prevented much light from escaping.

I woke before the sun, made my coffee, packed up, and was on the trail by 7. Much of this section has been burned, and gave it an ugly exposed look that later turned uncomfortably hot with the lack of tree cover under the sun. Small stands of trees gave periodic relief, but overall I wasn’t much inspired by the devistated old forest.

Suprise lake was nice

I listened to a bunch of podcasts, and at one point thought a tree was falling, but it was a black bear I had scared; I barely saw his hairy butt as he went crashing through the underbrush. I know a lot of other hikers have seen bears in this section, so I was either playing my podcasts outloud or yelling “hey bear” periodically. I didn’t see any people today, so I didn’t have to worry about spoiling their wilderness experience with my noise.

There were a few nice rocky ridgewalks, but the terrain didn’t get really good until the end of the day as i got into more alpine meadows and trees again.

Good ending

Not sure what to say about today, I hiked, ate food, and now am camped. Just one of those days.

The night was warm and I didn’t zip up my sleeping bag until the early hours of the morning, but slept well! I figured I would do breakfast again before trying to get out of town, and I noticed a cafe that had been closed was open this morning. I went over and marveled at the cheap prices..blueberry pancakes sounded good to me, and when they arrived, holy cow! Each one was as big as a plate! Biggest pancakes I’ve seen! And then I ate almost all. I’ll have bit to pack out for lunch, but I was surprised how much I ate. Glad I have my appetite!

I walked to the south end of town and displayed my “hiker to town” sign, after about 20 minutes a pickup pulls over, and the guy in the passenger side asks if I’m hiking the CDT, which is surprising because not many people know what the CDT is, turns out he was also hitching a ride, and is a PCT hiker! Million Bucks had taken a side trip from the PCT to go to Glacier, and was on his way to burning man before getting back on trail in Oregon. He seemed to be truly going with the flow, and we had a good chat while Fred, the driver, also shared his stories of hiking the PCT back in the ’70s after he returned from Vietnam. I’ve had some really good luck with interestIng hitches on this trail.

I got dropped off close to the trail, and as I was headed up to Chief Joseph Pass here comes G walking down the road. G, Funk, and Delightful had been about a day behind me ever since I left them in Lima. I filled him on all the town delights, and heard he had seen 5 bears and the wolf tracks too.

I finally got back on trail and the walking was mostly tree-bound. There were some bike tracks on the trail, actually had been for the past few days, and I finally met the bikers, three local women who like to ride in this area. Much of the CDT is open to bikes, but I just marvel at where I see the tread sometimes.

I met another nice Fred on an ATV at Gibbons Pass, but other than that it was a quiet day on the trail.

Break time

I’m cowboy camped again tonight, it looks like there may be some chances of rain and storms this week, so this could be the last night in a while that I sleep out. I really hope storms don’t cause any more fires, apparently the CDT in Glacier is open again! Great news….lets hope it stays that way.

I did not sleep well in the comfort. In the middle of the night I had finally had enough and spent a few hours on my phone until I finally tired myself out…then slept until almost 8am. No matter, I didn’t have much to do today besides eat and not walk.

I went to breakfast down the street and had a bacon omelette, then returned to my room to veg until check out time at 10:30. At that point I did laundry down the street and meandered over to the RV park/campground with leftover pizza in one hand, chocolate ice cream cone in the other. I got several approving remarks from folks on the street!

The owners of the campground couldn’t be nicer, and I set up on the green lawn back in the corner; a fire crew would be staying in all the cabins and bunk house, and they wanted me to have a quiet spot, which I appreciated.

I did my resupply and talked to my dear NEMO for a long time. I read a bit and watched some Netflix and didn’t do a whole lot.

This is what a zero day should be!