Again, sheesh. It snowed/rained/sleeted/hailed all night, but I stayed snug as a bug in my shelter and sleeping bag. I love snow, but this is getting old, Spring. Lets lighten up on the rain, snow, and lightning for a while, eh?

When I finally emerged from my shelter, I took advantage in a break in the weather. The day was misty as clouds hovered overhead for the first few hours. I slogged through the mud, slipping and sliding all around, before the sun finally came out and I could marvel at the rolling meadows and shiny world around me.

I could see snow on a far peak I would pass by later, but for the time being I enjoyed walking on old roads and was thankful for the sun that began to emerge and dry everything out.

I took lunch and listened to some music on my phone while eating another roast beef and feta cheese bagel…much better than yesterday, probably because I was so hungry!

Right before packing up for the afternoon’s hike my phone slid off my pack and onto the ground. Not thinking much of it, I picked it, selected a podcast for the after-lunch miles, and started hiking again.

I realized a while later I was’t on the trail anymore…or I wasn’t sure for that matter. There had been almost no CDT markers all day. I pulled out my phone to check my position on Guthook’s CDT GPS app, and to my horror realized the screen was shattered.

#*%&#(&! (pardon my French)

I got a panicky fear welling up, but I tamped it down and reassured myself that I was a map and compass guru and didn’t need the App to successfully navigate this section…snow? Follow footprints. Well, I tried to hike back to where I knew i was on the trail last, and pulled out my phone one more time to take a look and realized the top half of the screen was still operational, yes!

I called my folks and asked them to order me a replacement phone and have it shipped to Chama…whew, success! I saw I was about a quarter mile off the CDT before the entire screen went dead…but not before a partial text from Pimp Limp (a day ahead on the trail) came though that said, “Do not cross the river alone!”

What? What river? Where? I couldn’t manage to read the rest of the message before the phone went dead.

#^&#*^

This section had a few days of postholing up ahead before I would reach Chama, and apparently a big, dangerous river crossing, and yes, I was alone.

Well, I tried my hardest to find and stay on the CDT, but a few hours later I emerged on what I realized was a Ley alternate, elated that I knew where i was, but defeated that I had missed the trail and wasted some time, I weighed my options…and started walking the road I had stumbled upon out.

I left the mountains. Amid some self-berating about taking the easy way out and not rising to the navigational challenge of the trail ahead, was a deep sense of relief. I would be safe today. And tomorrow. I would get myself out of these mountains safely and not get caught in a potentially dangerous situation of hiking through the terrain ahead alone.

So I left! i knew the road would lead me to another road, and another road, and eventually a highway which I **hoped** would  lead to Chama. I would figure it out.

I hiked until about 7pm when a car drove by and I stopped them to ask about the way to Chama, apparently I only had about 6 miles to go until the highway and about 30 road miles to Chama. Yes!!!!!

Elated I decided it was time to camp, and found a spot snug on a short ridge beneath some scrub oak. The day was almost over. I broke my phone/camera/video camera/GPS/ and my Ipod (another instance in the day where I dropped it into a puddle), but I was safe and happy that i made the right decision.

Whew. I was dragging today. It might have been the HEAVY pack or the fact I didn’t drink much water over the last two days (maybe more beer than water?? oops.)

Alan and I left Santa Fe fairly early and got to Ghost Ranch just before 10. He decided to come hike a bit with me, and it’s the first friend I’ve had join me for an hour, it was really nice to show off the CDT, especially the amazing sandstone cliffs of that area.

We had a break and said our goodbyes and I headed up, up, up to thinner air. I was slow and dragging. Then i missed the trail for an alternate, but for some dumb reason I turned around instead of walking up the drainage….there was a very obvious way to connect back to the trail, but no. I turned around, and then got turned around again and wasted a good hour. Grrrrr.

I struggled up a bushwack to the top of the mesa and sucked eggs. And then made myself lunch of a pastrami bagel with feta cheese spread on a sesame bagel. That helped, so did the ipod I put on.

The going was slow and the old dirt track still muddy in spots from the torrential rain two days ago. I got rained on, but just a bit. Heard thunder, but just a bit. Was quite beautiful on top with glowing young aspen trees everywhere and cheeky little dandelions everywhere. I think dandelions might have a good chance at taking over the world…they are tenacious suckers.

Anyway I made it to a spring and walked just a bit further to find camp…a bit early, but I’m exhausted and have no reason to push. It may snow tonight…heavy rain is forecast, and I have one more day of walking before I reach the postholing snow I’ve heard so much about. I can let the potentially sunny forecast for Wednesday melt off more of that stuff. I’ve got 8 hikers breaking trail one day ahead of me, so I can afford to hang back and rest up when I’m feeling so ragged.

Ahhh, madras lentil tasty bite for dinner, and a hot apple cider, gourmet!

Taking time off to come into Santa Fe to visit my bud Extreme Alan has been wonderful. He met me at Ghost Ranch and as we drove the hourish route into the city it began to snow. At 7,000. Not an exciting sight.

The trail traverses some high elevations in this next stretch (only about 100 miles to Colorado!), and all the recent storms have left a hefty layer of snow. Yikes. I have to admit, with all my winter travel experience it’s still daunting to know there is snow out there and more coming. Storms predicted all week. Ugg. Some hikers just shared their harrowing experience of the next stretch and it hasn’t done much for my nervousness, but I have used the opportunity of being in a big city to evaluate my gear.

I picked up some micro spikes, borrowed some pants from Alan, and Kirk is sending some gortex pants, snow gaiters, skis, skins, wax, new tyvek, several compactor bags, Aqua Mira (frozen filter??) and probably some others things I can’t think of right now. My gortex socks will be life savers out there, and so now it’s just doing it.

But the rest has been wonderful. Alan and Andy (housemates) have been most welcoming and have unflinchingly helped me in all my various tasks and chores (and didn’t comment on my pervasive hiker stench). So much so that the second day Alan and I were able to play tourist in Santa Fe. We stalked the Outside Magazine office, walked around the open air artist markets, looked at a few old churches, watched Mad Max, and took a short hike to an overlook of the whole city. It’s been great!

Ate good food, caught up with a great friend, and got myself rested and prepped for the next section.

Not looking forward to the storms that will be most heavy in the next two days, but hopefully they will have done their thing and I can enjoy the sunlight for the few days of postholing I’ll have in the second half of the next stretch. Now all those big miles I’ve been doing seem to have caught up with me, but with the continued storm cycle we are facing I’m not sure it would have made much difference.

Onward!

(Some of my previously written blog posts were saved despite the broken phone! Joy!)

I got chased by storms all day. Literally.

I woke up to thunderheads coming my way in the morning, so I made short order of packing up and headed out to climb the big mesa in front of me. I had just made it to the top when the winds picked up and I could see the clouds approaching (it actually felt quite good as I was SWEATY), but kept moving. This happened all morning until early afternoon when they actually caught me.

I’m meeting my friend Alan at Ghost Ranch tomorrow morning to take a day or two off in Santa Fe, but with this dark dark sky, the 26 miles into shelter and food and a bed doesn’t sound that bad. I think I’m gonna do it! Another big day when there is still snow falling in the mountains north of here and people telling us to slow down…but it’s so hard to slow down when my legs are feeling strong and I am hiking alone and all there is to do is hike. This is what I’m here for! So I hike. And I’ll probably get to some considerable snow soon…but the good thing is I’m fairly comfortable in snow, and I have my skis coming!!! That’s right. It looks like I may get to use my shoe-binding skis in southern Colorado. In fact, it might be easier if there is more snow (sorry other hikers!)

Back to the hiking…after that first big climb on the mesa the rest of the day was downhill, on some really nice trail. It’s hard not to make miles when it’s so good! And when I emerged from all the downhill…..WOW, it does get better! The scenery keeps getting better! A lot of the terrain on top of the mesas reminds me of the high desert in Oregon, but then I get a glimpse of these dramatic and jaw-dropping sandstone cliffs, and I am blown away.

Today I was almost literally blown away…the storm was still on my heals, and I didn’t linger long as the rain was starting to fall. I tried to soak in as much of the beauty as I could…pictures just can not do this area justice, and kept hiking.

The rain came. I got out my umbrella. Kept hiking.

Hiking

More hiking until I reached the Ghost Ranch alternate, and started the 11 mile walk to warmth! The road I was on follows the Chama River, and yep, another waterway I would like to come back and boat.

I kept looking back and the storms and rain and clouds made for some pretty dramatic landscapes. Even though the miles are long and the pace is hurried, I had a great day.

I turned off the road and unfortunately the periodic rain created the perfect concoction for mud boots. The heavy red clay soil caked on my shoes again and again, it felt like 10 pound weights on my feet. UGGGGGG.

And then I was there!

Oh beautiful Ghost Ranch with your all-you-can-eat meals and your bunk rooms. There was enough space for about 10 dirty hikers, and I met a bunch of new hikers that have been in front of me. Pimp Limp’s dad had come to visit and brought the desired beers! We ate and celebrated the fact we were not in the downpour, and of course all the talk was of the snow. Yep it’s still snowing.

But tonight, dry and warm.

What is my motivation you ask? Hmmm, good question. On the bad days I ask myself that question more, but the answer always seems to add up to this: because it’s there, because i like it, and because it is a real adventure.

Today’s real adventure added up to feeding and resting this vehicle of mine. Pimp Limp and I limped over to the Cuban Cafe for a big breakfast and countless cups of coffee. Seriously, I think the waitress was making fun of us, but really it was less about the caffeine than the warm liquid in the memory of that rain. Shiver.

We ran into Grits and Bird Dog who had made a side trip into Albuquerque, courtesy of Nectar, an AT southbounder Grits knew. Then I took the low slow walk through town: spent a couple hours repacking my pack, checking out each store along the mile-long corridor, getting lunch and charging the electronics one more time, and despite my best effort to spend the day in Cuba, I found myself walking out of town on the road North. She has a mighty strong siren call, the North.

BUT, I pulled off the road after about 6 miles to find camp on a sunny flat on the way up to the mountains. Since it was only about 3:30, I had a whole afternoon to do nothing. Yes!

Giving the ‘ol workhorse a rest is a good idea. The next stretch looks strenuous and I’ll need all the energy I’ve got, but I also get to visit with Alan soon…a friend from Portland days a while back who lives in Santa Fe now and will be picking me up in a few days for a day off in the big city. 🙂

I’ve got my eye on the ridge that is housing some lingering snow…we’ll be up around 10,000 tomorrow and up high where it snowed just last night. Hmmm. Snow ahead eh?

I didn’t set out to hike over 30 miles today. In fact most of the day I was congratulating myself on not giving into the temptation of town within reach. My plan was to camp about 5-6 miles short of Cuba, then do the quick walk to town in the morning in time for breakfast, and walk my way across town to resupply, eat lunch and possibly eat dinner, before hiking out a few miles. A well strategized nero day.

I should have known that plan was doomed when I came across Pimp Limp still in his sleeping bag that morning. He was planning on hiking into town…I explained my plan and think I almost had him convinced on the nero idea, but I kept hiking as he was packing up.

Cut to the terrain out here…AMAZABALLS! It just keeps getting better. I don’t know how, but it does. I HAVE to come back here and explore more. Granted there isn’t much water, and I ended up carrying enough for a 30 mile stretch, but wow, it’s truly spectacular out here.

I didn’t have a ton of water left, so was trying to make good time to Jones Spring before the day got too hot, or the clouds decided to form into thunderheads. I cruised through crazy cool sandstone hoodoos, up and around mesas, and every once in a while got to walk the rim of one of the monolithic giants.

The spring

I made it to Jones Spring in time for lunch, and spent the next two hours napping in the sun, eating almost all of the rest of my food and luxuriating in the cool sandy paradise. Pimp Limp had arrived, and he sounded like he might not make the push to town after all, it was still 15.7 miles away.

So the afternoon consisted of climbing up a CRAZY steep route to the top of the next mesa…it would be scary in bad weather…sometimes the only thing holding the rocks to the side of the slope was rebar or luck. The wind had started to whip up and I could see huge billows of cloud forming…uh oh…storms are coming.

Big junpier!

The wind picked up steam as I walked across the top of the mesa, and at that point it was just my plan to get to a spot to camp before the rain started. I was just starting to scope out possible spots before town when I noticed the sky was getting darker and darker, the clouds bigger and bigger. I started evaluating the trees and landscape for how it could protect me from the lighting that was sure to come, and the driving rain. Would it be better to pitch up against the side of a rock? Or in the middle of trees? But not trees that were too tall…

I’m not liking my choices when I turn around and see Pimp Limp speed walking towards me. “I’m going to town!” he exclaimed. I didn’t miss a beat. “Me too!” I said. I fell into step behind him and our new goal was to hike the 7 miles to town before the skies unleashed their fury. It didn’t look good.

Fortunately having someone to talk to helped make the miles pass, and then the drops started to fall and the cold air came rushing in. You know it’s not a good sign when you get that rush of cold air…

I pulled out my umbrella and the last few miles it sprinkled; it was gathering steam and as we got to Cuba and saw the motel sign we started to make a run for it, and within feet of the front door it started to POUR. Picture torrential downpour. Yeah. But we were there. We made it. Nice try sky, not tonight!

We threw down our stuff in a room and went out again into the night…we heard there was an amazing mexican restaurant in town…and as luck would have it, it was a mile down the road. But who cares! We’ll be dry tonight! The thunder and lightening can do what they want!

After an amazing meal we entertained the prospects of walking back the mile in the pouring rain. I had already hiked 32 miles, the farthest so far on this trip, and did NOT want to walk back. We started talking to the owner, Hazel, and she offered to give us a ride back. Trail Magic!!

Glorious wonderful town. I don’t regret the pounding in my feet or the enchiladas in my belly.

WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW

Today was pretty freaking amazing. Best day on the trail yet for terrain and scenery.

I stopped so often to take photos that I surely took as many today as I have the whole trip this far.

Dude.

And now cowboy camped for the first time in a long time. Feet are pulsing, belly is full, horizon full of fading colors. Night.

Today was brilliant, cold, and clear. It’s as if yesterday didn’t happen. It’s definitely spring.

Road walking, dirt road no cars walking, zone out and be walking. Good day for walking. So much so that I walked until I saw probably the best view so far of the whole trip.

So I stopped.