I think a cow tried to get in my camp spot during the night, but I wasn’t about to share my little flat spot with a heffer! Morning came quickly and I packed up knowing I had short morning into town.

Walking a highway, oh yeah. At least the first few miles on hwy 41 were pretty quiet, I saw a few elk trying to jump over the fence that lined the road, and marveled at all the wildflowers that burst out of almost every inch of green.

When I got to the big highway I kept switching sides to stay in the visible spots around the big bends in the road, and luckily checked my map at just the right time to save myself walking more than I needed to, it was time to hitch!

Being the 5th of July there were hundreds of cars leaving Steamboat Springs, but very very few heading towards town. After 30 minutes and only about 4 cars passing I started to despair, but gave the next car driving up the pass all my energy…”Please pick me up! I’m not scary, I won’t hurt you!” Releasing that energy into the world must have helped, because the car slowed down and the young couple in the car made room for me to hop in the back. Sweet!!

The ride to town went pretty quick, and before you know it I was scoping out a place to eat another breakfast. I found Freshies, a yummy eatery, and left with full belly and a few hours to kill before I could check into my hotel.

Funny enough I was outside putting my pack on when a guy asked if I was hiking the CDT…why yes I am! And he noticed my Point6 socks too, and that’s when I met Derek and learned he worked for them, I’d be seeing him tomorrow when I stopped by the office! Small world!

I made my way downtown and picked up a few resupply items I knew I needed, stopped by a place for a small lunch and when I caught the free bus to my hotel, on got MIJ (Made in Japan) a northbound CDT hiker I had first met in central Colorado. He was on his way to the same hotel, so we talked trail and marveled that we had both been hiking solo and same as the others around us, kept to the same pocket (maybe doing similar miles) so that we never ran into each other on the trail. Even seeing someone in town, it was great to connect with another hiker! He’ll be heading out tomorrow while I have another day off, so who knows when I’ll run into him again.

I didn’t do much once I got my room…took a shower, ordered a pizza, and watched movies until I couldn’t keep my eyes open any longer.

This bed is divine.

Wow, the miles rack up quick when you start doing 30s! Over 1,300 already…that could be about half way, but since I have no clue how many miles it will end up taking me to get to Canada (hikers report anywhere from 2,400 – 3,100 depending on what routes they take) I could be saying “maybe halfway” for a while.

Regardless, the 30s are feeling more like 25s did a while ago. I think once I hit smoother terrain those could be consistant high miles. Not that I’m in a rush to get done or anything, you just see what your body can do, and see what your mind wants to do.

Today started with a fantastic surprise, Natty, whom I last saw in Chama, walked by as I was packing up camp! He had flipped up to Wyoming and was walking south. What a treat.

Natty and I were snow - bound in Chama together

And the morning’s walk on more ridgewalk was spectacular.

Once I hit the 20+ miles of road walking though, my enthusiasm started to flag. Or maybe it wasn’t so much the road as the heat and bugs. Today began the plague of the biting flies. It’s no good when you are battling mosquitoes, bees, wasps, flies and biting flies. I hid out in my bug condom during breaks. Blah.

But the afternoon was saved by the Richardsons! I was in my final 10 miles and feeling slow when Tim beckoned me over to their RV (parked off the forest road) with a, “would you like some cold water?”

Trail Angels to the rescue!

Would I like some cold water? I was just contemplating trying to drink the cow water that has reappeared and was evaluating if I could go without and still have a hot dinner, coffee and water to make it into town when I heard these wonderful words.

“Yes, I would love some!”

I walk over to meet Tim and his wife Tammy, Kate and 4 year old Brock (soon to be 5). Once again total strangers offer me so much more than they know. Not only did I get cold water, but Tammy and Kate made me a huge plate of food (which I quickly put down) and some fruit, candy, duritos, and more water to take with me. Better than that they gave me the oomph to hike 9 more miles.

Thank you so much Richardson family! You are now trail angels (and Brock, I liked the Jolly Rancher candies the best too…I ate them all!).

At camp time I made my way up a small drainage that wasn’t marked private (hazards of road walks) and thought I could make something work near this big tree when I noticed some industrious cow had flattened out the perfect napping spot under the tree, just PERFECT for me and my tarp! Thanks cow!

It’s the fourth of July, happy freedom!

Well I hiked a lot of miles today, but not all of them necessarily counted…I had my first significant displacement of 4 miles today, I had totally missed a trail junction and merrily walked about 2 miles down the wrong trail, and by down I mean hiked off the ridge I was supposed to be on. But to be honest I wasn’t too mad at myself, i’ve been out here a long time and for that to be my first time taking the wrong trail is pretty good. Compared to the stress of navigating the CDT in previous years, the app and phone gps has made a huge difference out here. I’m not lost nearly as much as I could be.

There is moose running away from me if you look close

So when I reached Willow Creek Pass and saw the thunderheads building I decided to take the storm route around Parkview Mt. It was a fine walk, and I was able to listen to my Alt-J Pandora station for most of the afternoon, but the storm never materialzed and I could have gone up there…the road was easier but longer…again miles that I walked but didn’t need to. Oh well.

I met the trail again at Haystack Mt and wrapped back around it and to Troublesome Pass where I’m now camped.

30 miles feels good, there is much more daylight, but there’s no reason to push it, I was getting stumbly at the end, and that’s a good time to get hurt.

I’ll read a bit and then close my eyes, or close my eyes now…

With bellies full from good food and wine, we fell asleep quickly, and woke slowly. Check out from our cabin was 10am, and I intended to make the most of the morning.

We layed around a bit and then made our way to the restaurant for a breakfast buffet. I wasn’t sure how hungry I would be after eating so much yesterday, but when I saw the bacon, sausage, eggs, fruit and more I suddenly found room for two plates. Oh yeah.

My Aunt is hikertrash!

When 10 rolled around Aunt Barbara dropped me off at the post office to mail some stuff home, snow gaiters be gone! She had brought all sorts of treats for me to pack out and her friend from work Barbara (who knows Farmer) made me some DELICIOUS homemade cookies! I tell you, my moral is up pretty high right now 🙂

Yum, yum, yum, yum

I walked out of Grand Lake and had a blissful day in the trees with one pretty nice climb up to Bowan Pass and up and over the other side. the 50% rain and thunder didnt materialize, and I enjoyed a pleasent afternoon in the mountains. When I happened upon a beautiful meadow and nice little spot for my tarp I called it a night a bit early and decided to enjoy the handsome evening in camp.

Everything was soaking when I woke, that’s what happens when you camp next to a lake, and when it poured the evening before. The trail was brushy and overgrown and if my shoes, socks, and skirt hadn’t been soaked from the night before, they would have quickly became drenched in the morning dew. Nevermind, I was close to Grand Lake!

I made my way up and down, around and in and out of the coves of Granby Lake, until I emerged at a trail head right in the middle of everything. Cute river-front homes and cottages dotted the shores of Grand Lake and Granby, and a short walk away I was in town eating breakfast.

I made my way up to Grand Lodge where I would be meeting my Aunt, and as I was sitting at a table enjoying a mimosa I hear her voice behind me ordering a coffee. Sweet!!

We spent the afternoon catching up, I take a much desired shower (it’s been a week), do some laundry (everything STINKS) and we have a wonderful dinner at the lodge.

Another treat to have family come spoil me for a day, I can’t express how wonderful this was!

After dinner we had a soak in the hottub overlooking the lakes, life is pretty good right now.

I slept well, and decided to tackle the day with gusto. I cruised up the road the past few miles to Rollins Pass, and climbed the hump of a mountain before my last 3 miles of ridgewalking for a while.

The flowers carpeted EVERYTHING! It was really beautiful. I saw elk grazing, and the day was warm, pretty freaking amazing.

I started what would be a long downhill into the trees. It’s so nice to hike in trees again! And as I expected, the mosquitos are a bit more aggressive down low, I walked a bit with my bug condom, but found they weren’t bad enough to warrant that.

Lots of marshes and water, I didn’t see any moose, but this is prime territory.

Finally I made it down to Monarch Lake and was excited for the prospect of a store that sold ice cream! But when I made it to the spot, I was told it was closed. Crushed.

I kept walking and ended up getting dumped on with rain and hail during a storm as I was hiking a ridge above Granby Lake.

I got soaked, and pushed on through a few more miles, and what do you know, that makes 30 for today. I’ll have 8 into Grand Lake tomorrow morning and will get to hang out with my Aunt Barbara for the day!

I stressed myself out yesterday feeling like I was trapped by the storms that could or could not strike when I was above treeline, so instead I walked some roads to meet up with the divide at Rollins Pass, I’ll have a bit of high ridge walking tomorrow before a long stretch begins in the trees, or the high elevations aren’t as exposed. Don’t get me wrong, I loved all the high sections, I just wish I could take more time when I’m up there…20 miles is tough to do by noon, or 1 or even 2 in challenging terrain.

So onward.

Cool sight of the day, a big bull moose crossing the road! Just like it was nobody’s business, and I took my time passing by that spot in case he was lingering near the road…I haven’t seen it, but apparently they can be quite mean.

I had a pleasant afternoon walking up closed-down forest service roads, but actually met other people out walking or biking on the roads too, that’s a nice change.

The wild roses smelled nice

The rain and bit of thunder passed overhead and since I don’t want to sleep above treeline, am camped on a green knoll just before the trees disappear. It’s quite beautiful.

I’ll read some more of my Paul Theroux book, the 22 miles today was much less tiring than the 18 miles yesterday…not all miles are created equal.

The logistics of this section is getting to me. It’s a giant mind-game with your life. Seriously! The thunder storms every afternoon and the extended EXTENSIVE and long miles above tree-line make it very hard to plan the day or make miles without killing yourself.

I was hiking by 6am this morning, essentially with 18 miles above tree line, sometimes MILES from treeline, to make it to Berthoud Pass to meet my friends from the PCT Rocketman and Solar by about 2 or 3pm. Great, but then thunderstorms are predicted this afternoon, and the clouds start amassing about 10:30 in the morning. Only about half way through I start to pick up the pace and don’t stop for breaks. At about 7 miles to go I’m worried I won’t make it with the weather and think about bailing low and walking the highway, but I decide to go for it, and make the next 1,000′ climb up up up on top of everything. It’s beautiful up there, I’m hiking as fast as I can, it starts to rain a bit, but then stops, the neighbor mountains are getting rained on good, I stay in a lucky spot and I am so thankful. I make it to the pass about 1:30 just in time to see my two friends and their two kids walk up the trail, Yes!!!

It's wonderful up here when the skies are blue!

Friends!!!!

But I am done with this stress. Exhausted. Looking ahead I’m stuck with some impossible miles above treeline with a worsening forcast. While we were in Winter Park we heard that 15 people got struck by lightening trying to summit a 14er near by. FIFTEEN. AT 11:30AM. I’m not ok with that.

I am due to meet my Aunt in Grand Lake in 2 1/2 days. 55 miles, no problem, right? Ummm, not according to the map. So I’m going to get creative, hike north and do what I feel safe over the next day or two. Geez. I hear the terrain drops below treeline soon, I mean I’m all for lovely ridgewalks, but leave the lightening at home.

Anyway, I met Rocketman, Solar and their ADORABLE kids and they suggested going to Winter Park for food…gee, let me think…YES!! It was so good to catch up with them and meet (I’m going to mess up the spelling….) their kids Kiele and Kahlo, both born after the PCT. Their lives are busy with parenting, but it seems like they find time to get out and more importantly get their kids out hiking too. Great time catching up with some awesome hikers.

I bought a little more food and we had a second meal while enjoying music from the near-by blues fest, and finally I made it back up to the pass where I camped not too far in. The trail goes right up…don’t have much choice!

Tomorrow I get creative and get myself north.

I woke up tired, again at 4:15am, and knew I had some challenging miles ahead of me. Climb this 14er and then make it as far as I can up the next mountains…these Colorado miles are tough!

The ridge

I set off at first light climbing up towards Argintine Pass. I first started to hate this route when the few remaining snow chutes on the climb up were frozen solid…and i had to either pick my way down or up the talus to get around it, or go through it. At one point I had my hiking pole shortened, one without a snow basket, and was futily trying to use it like an ice axe as I tried to step gingerly on the half steps that had frozen in the snow. “One step at a time, one step at a time,” was my mantra. Just keep going.

No likey

I knew the ridgewalking up ahead was sketch too, and started to freak myself out. “One step at a time, one step at a time.”

The going was fine until Edwards Mountain when i found myself on a series of knife’s edges. I slowly made my way around, NOT enjoying this section. Thanks goodness i had decent weather. I was all about to skip the summit of Gray’s Peak, the highest point on the CDT, but when i saw the hard part was over when i reached the climbers trail, i went ahead and went up.

Looking back. No thank you.

Yep, on top of a mountain!

Time to go down, down, down. I had a long road walk out to Herman Gluch and my goal was to score some trail magic from one of the hundreds of tourists out to climb the mountain too. (Easy access from Denver and I70)

Look at all the peeps

Then a car pulled over saying something about backpacking and before i knew it he was handing me 2 cold beers, tortillas and beans he had just made. YUM! Thanks Kyle!

Walking walking walking. My legs are tired. I am tired.

I attempt to take a nap along a bike path we walk for a while, but the mosquitos wont leave me alone and im too lazy to get out muy bug net.

Walking. I walk up to Herman Gulch and start climbing. Legs are tired. Finally i make camp before the trail goes above treeline again. Peacing out to the green meadows, riotous wildflowers, and cascading creek.

Sleep is soon.

I set my alarm for 4:15, wanting to get an early start to give myself as much time above tree level as possible before any weather would move in after 12pm. I started by headlamp just about 5am, and soon could see the path in the new day.

The going was realitively snow-free and the dawning day made for some dramatic views. I just can’t really put the day into words, one because I’m so tired, and two, because you just have to be there!

Here are a few photos to illustrate a bit of what I’m talking about:

The going got a little rougher towards the end of the 15+ miles of ridgewalking, I found myself on a knife’s edge stepping gingerly down slopes of tallus, an altogether frightening proposition if it had been anything but sunny and pleasent like it was.

I was getting tired. The constant climbing and descending of peaks at 12 & 13,000′ was exhausting. I rounded the final peak, Santa Fe, and could see Grays Mountain that I would be climbing tomorrow. The way down was blocked by a fatty cornice that I didn’t want to deal with, so I took the long way around, walking through the little community of Montizuma.

I found I had more miles on the dirt road than I wanted, all I really wanted to do was lay down and close my eyes. I some how made it close to tomorrow’s climb up to 14,000′ and have a cozy place to camp. It’s not even 6pm, but I think I might go to bed. Tired.