Whew. I was dragging today. It might have been the HEAVY pack or the fact I didn’t drink much water over the last two days (maybe more beer than water?? oops.)

Alan and I left Santa Fe fairly early and got to Ghost Ranch just before 10. He decided to come hike a bit with me, and it’s the first friend I’ve had join me for an hour, it was really nice to show off the CDT, especially the amazing sandstone cliffs of that area.

We had a break and said our goodbyes and I headed up, up, up to thinner air. I was slow and dragging. Then i missed the trail for an alternate, but for some dumb reason I turned around instead of walking up the drainage….there was a very obvious way to connect back to the trail, but no. I turned around, and then got turned around again and wasted a good hour. Grrrrr.

I struggled up a bushwack to the top of the mesa and sucked eggs. And then made myself lunch of a pastrami bagel with feta cheese spread on a sesame bagel. That helped, so did the ipod I put on.

The going was slow and the old dirt track still muddy in spots from the torrential rain two days ago. I got rained on, but just a bit. Heard thunder, but just a bit. Was quite beautiful on top with glowing young aspen trees everywhere and cheeky little dandelions everywhere. I think dandelions might have a good chance at taking over the world…they are tenacious suckers.

Anyway I made it to a spring and walked just a bit further to find camp…a bit early, but I’m exhausted and have no reason to push. It may snow tonight…heavy rain is forecast, and I have one more day of walking before I reach the postholing snow I’ve heard so much about. I can let the potentially sunny forecast for Wednesday melt off more of that stuff. I’ve got 8 hikers breaking trail one day ahead of me, so I can afford to hang back and rest up when I’m feeling so ragged.

Ahhh, madras lentil tasty bite for dinner, and a hot apple cider, gourmet!

Taking time off to come into Santa Fe to visit my bud Extreme Alan has been wonderful. He met me at Ghost Ranch and as we drove the hourish route into the city it began to snow. At 7,000. Not an exciting sight.

The trail traverses some high elevations in this next stretch (only about 100 miles to Colorado!), and all the recent storms have left a hefty layer of snow. Yikes. I have to admit, with all my winter travel experience it’s still daunting to know there is snow out there and more coming. Storms predicted all week. Ugg. Some hikers just shared their harrowing experience of the next stretch and it hasn’t done much for my nervousness, but I have used the opportunity of being in a big city to evaluate my gear.

I picked up some micro spikes, borrowed some pants from Alan, and Kirk is sending some gortex pants, snow gaiters, skis, skins, wax, new tyvek, several compactor bags, Aqua Mira (frozen filter??) and probably some others things I can’t think of right now. My gortex socks will be life savers out there, and so now it’s just doing it.

But the rest has been wonderful. Alan and Andy (housemates) have been most welcoming and have unflinchingly helped me in all my various tasks and chores (and didn’t comment on my pervasive hiker stench). So much so that the second day Alan and I were able to play tourist in Santa Fe. We stalked the Outside Magazine office, walked around the open air artist markets, looked at a few old churches, watched Mad Max, and took a short hike to an overlook of the whole city. It’s been great!

Ate good food, caught up with a great friend, and got myself rested and prepped for the next section.

Not looking forward to the storms that will be most heavy in the next two days, but hopefully they will have done their thing and I can enjoy the sunlight for the few days of postholing I’ll have in the second half of the next stretch. Now all those big miles I’ve been doing seem to have caught up with me, but with the continued storm cycle we are facing I’m not sure it would have made much difference.

Onward!

(Some of my previously written blog posts were saved despite the broken phone! Joy!)

I got chased by storms all day. Literally.

I woke up to thunderheads coming my way in the morning, so I made short order of packing up and headed out to climb the big mesa in front of me. I had just made it to the top when the winds picked up and I could see the clouds approaching (it actually felt quite good as I was SWEATY), but kept moving. This happened all morning until early afternoon when they actually caught me.

I’m meeting my friend Alan at Ghost Ranch tomorrow morning to take a day or two off in Santa Fe, but with this dark dark sky, the 26 miles into shelter and food and a bed doesn’t sound that bad. I think I’m gonna do it! Another big day when there is still snow falling in the mountains north of here and people telling us to slow down…but it’s so hard to slow down when my legs are feeling strong and I am hiking alone and all there is to do is hike. This is what I’m here for! So I hike. And I’ll probably get to some considerable snow soon…but the good thing is I’m fairly comfortable in snow, and I have my skis coming!!! That’s right. It looks like I may get to use my shoe-binding skis in southern Colorado. In fact, it might be easier if there is more snow (sorry other hikers!)

Back to the hiking…after that first big climb on the mesa the rest of the day was downhill, on some really nice trail. It’s hard not to make miles when it’s so good! And when I emerged from all the downhill…..WOW, it does get better! The scenery keeps getting better! A lot of the terrain on top of the mesas reminds me of the high desert in Oregon, but then I get a glimpse of these dramatic and jaw-dropping sandstone cliffs, and I am blown away.

Today I was almost literally blown away…the storm was still on my heals, and I didn’t linger long as the rain was starting to fall. I tried to soak in as much of the beauty as I could…pictures just can not do this area justice, and kept hiking.

The rain came. I got out my umbrella. Kept hiking.

Hiking

More hiking until I reached the Ghost Ranch alternate, and started the 11 mile walk to warmth! The road I was on follows the Chama River, and yep, another waterway I would like to come back and boat.

I kept looking back and the storms and rain and clouds made for some pretty dramatic landscapes. Even though the miles are long and the pace is hurried, I had a great day.

I turned off the road and unfortunately the periodic rain created the perfect concoction for mud boots. The heavy red clay soil caked on my shoes again and again, it felt like 10 pound weights on my feet. UGGGGGG.

And then I was there!

Oh beautiful Ghost Ranch with your all-you-can-eat meals and your bunk rooms. There was enough space for about 10 dirty hikers, and I met a bunch of new hikers that have been in front of me. Pimp Limp’s dad had come to visit and brought the desired beers! We ate and celebrated the fact we were not in the downpour, and of course all the talk was of the snow. Yep it’s still snowing.

But tonight, dry and warm.

What is my motivation you ask? Hmmm, good question. On the bad days I ask myself that question more, but the answer always seems to add up to this: because it’s there, because i like it, and because it is a real adventure.

Today’s real adventure added up to feeding and resting this vehicle of mine. Pimp Limp and I limped over to the Cuban Cafe for a big breakfast and countless cups of coffee. Seriously, I think the waitress was making fun of us, but really it was less about the caffeine than the warm liquid in the memory of that rain. Shiver.

We ran into Grits and Bird Dog who had made a side trip into Albuquerque, courtesy of Nectar, an AT southbounder Grits knew. Then I took the low slow walk through town: spent a couple hours repacking my pack, checking out each store along the mile-long corridor, getting lunch and charging the electronics one more time, and despite my best effort to spend the day in Cuba, I found myself walking out of town on the road North. She has a mighty strong siren call, the North.

BUT, I pulled off the road after about 6 miles to find camp on a sunny flat on the way up to the mountains. Since it was only about 3:30, I had a whole afternoon to do nothing. Yes!

Giving the ‘ol workhorse a rest is a good idea. The next stretch looks strenuous and I’ll need all the energy I’ve got, but I also get to visit with Alan soon…a friend from Portland days a while back who lives in Santa Fe now and will be picking me up in a few days for a day off in the big city. 🙂

I’ve got my eye on the ridge that is housing some lingering snow…we’ll be up around 10,000 tomorrow and up high where it snowed just last night. Hmmm. Snow ahead eh?

I didn’t set out to hike over 30 miles today. In fact most of the day I was congratulating myself on not giving into the temptation of town within reach. My plan was to camp about 5-6 miles short of Cuba, then do the quick walk to town in the morning in time for breakfast, and walk my way across town to resupply, eat lunch and possibly eat dinner, before hiking out a few miles. A well strategized nero day.

I should have known that plan was doomed when I came across Pimp Limp still in his sleeping bag that morning. He was planning on hiking into town…I explained my plan and think I almost had him convinced on the nero idea, but I kept hiking as he was packing up.

Cut to the terrain out here…AMAZABALLS! It just keeps getting better. I don’t know how, but it does. I HAVE to come back here and explore more. Granted there isn’t much water, and I ended up carrying enough for a 30 mile stretch, but wow, it’s truly spectacular out here.

I didn’t have a ton of water left, so was trying to make good time to Jones Spring before the day got too hot, or the clouds decided to form into thunderheads. I cruised through crazy cool sandstone hoodoos, up and around mesas, and every once in a while got to walk the rim of one of the monolithic giants.

The spring

I made it to Jones Spring in time for lunch, and spent the next two hours napping in the sun, eating almost all of the rest of my food and luxuriating in the cool sandy paradise. Pimp Limp had arrived, and he sounded like he might not make the push to town after all, it was still 15.7 miles away.

So the afternoon consisted of climbing up a CRAZY steep route to the top of the next mesa…it would be scary in bad weather…sometimes the only thing holding the rocks to the side of the slope was rebar or luck. The wind had started to whip up and I could see huge billows of cloud forming…uh oh…storms are coming.

Big junpier!

The wind picked up steam as I walked across the top of the mesa, and at that point it was just my plan to get to a spot to camp before the rain started. I was just starting to scope out possible spots before town when I noticed the sky was getting darker and darker, the clouds bigger and bigger. I started evaluating the trees and landscape for how it could protect me from the lighting that was sure to come, and the driving rain. Would it be better to pitch up against the side of a rock? Or in the middle of trees? But not trees that were too tall…

I’m not liking my choices when I turn around and see Pimp Limp speed walking towards me. “I’m going to town!” he exclaimed. I didn’t miss a beat. “Me too!” I said. I fell into step behind him and our new goal was to hike the 7 miles to town before the skies unleashed their fury. It didn’t look good.

Fortunately having someone to talk to helped make the miles pass, and then the drops started to fall and the cold air came rushing in. You know it’s not a good sign when you get that rush of cold air…

I pulled out my umbrella and the last few miles it sprinkled; it was gathering steam and as we got to Cuba and saw the motel sign we started to make a run for it, and within feet of the front door it started to POUR. Picture torrential downpour. Yeah. But we were there. We made it. Nice try sky, not tonight!

We threw down our stuff in a room and went out again into the night…we heard there was an amazing mexican restaurant in town…and as luck would have it, it was a mile down the road. But who cares! We’ll be dry tonight! The thunder and lightening can do what they want!

After an amazing meal we entertained the prospects of walking back the mile in the pouring rain. I had already hiked 32 miles, the farthest so far on this trip, and did NOT want to walk back. We started talking to the owner, Hazel, and she offered to give us a ride back. Trail Magic!!

Glorious wonderful town. I don’t regret the pounding in my feet or the enchiladas in my belly.

WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW

Today was pretty freaking amazing. Best day on the trail yet for terrain and scenery.

I stopped so often to take photos that I surely took as many today as I have the whole trip this far.

Dude.

And now cowboy camped for the first time in a long time. Feet are pulsing, belly is full, horizon full of fading colors. Night.

Today was brilliant, cold, and clear. It’s as if yesterday didn’t happen. It’s definitely spring.

Road walking, dirt road no cars walking, zone out and be walking. Good day for walking. So much so that I walked until I saw probably the best view so far of the whole trip.

So I stopped.

I have a heavy heart this morning. I just got word that a friend’s husband passed away (cancer) and this comes not even a month after another friend’s husband passed away (cancer). The three of us went to highschool together….we are in our late 30’s, and to have both deaths so close together is mind boggling. I’m hiking for them today. For the inevitability of all of our passing, but in sorrow that theirs was too soon. Missy & Melissa, I love you girls and wish I could be there for you.

The day started with snow. It blew in cold and fast…having looked at the weather report I expected it after noon, giving me time to hike up Mt. Taylor before it hit, but it started early. I fought with the decision to climb it or not, and after the sun had come out for a while and as I hiked toward the mountain, I had a break at the junction. Sure it was cold, but I could at least check out. I headed up the road to the summit trail,  turned a corner and realized the mountain was covered in snow already and it looked to be white-out conditions. Well, I turned around. While I’m solo I still want to be safe and enjoy myself, and that did not look like fun up there. Bummer, on a good day I bet it is a breathtaking view.

It was fun at first!

Getting deeper...

So I hiked on the CDT and got snowed on, and hiked and snow, and break, up because it was too cold for break, snow.

COLD but I was doing ok, I kept changing layers as it got cold then I got warm then the sun came out, anyway….i kept moving until I decided to put up my tarp and have a nice long lunch/nap in my sleeping bag…when I look up and see a pavillion! A shelter with a nice gravel floor! Wow! And cars….hmmm dayhikers?

So I set up all my stuff on the floor under the pavillion and proceeded to stay there for two hours in my sleeping bag. At one point a woman came out of the woods behind me; she had been trail running and that was her car, the other belonged to two other women running with her. People!

Sitting in the pavillion

We chatted for a while as I was still on the floor in my sleeping bag…ha! It was cold! One of the women gave me a banana and the other some crackers, nice!

Then I layed back down and dozed a while when I heard a car drive up the road (dirt forest service road…sometimes you have no idea how used or unused these roads are). Out gets a cop, he was concerned when he say someone laying there on the ground, but once I gave him my story he understood. He drives around now that more roads are open for the season to check things out. Ok, well when he drove off I packed up, I might as well hike some more.

What I looked like to the cop; I was napping.

A repeat of the morning. Snow, sun, warmish, cold, cold, snow…..repeat. At my last water source for the next 25ish miles I strapped 14 pounds of water to my pack, and the going was slow after that.

Wild horses!

I found camp and am DONE. It’s a cold night but I have my SMD tarp staked snug to the ground, and I have the hood of my jacket snug on my head…it’s almost too warm…I got this!

All my gear is doing awesome out here, super happy with what I chose to carry…my new Oboz Luna’s are SICK! I swapped my shoes out in Grants, and these babies were meant for me. We just cruise over the rocks like they’re nothing. I love the agressive soles on these things.

So tomorrow: hiking. Day after: hiking. Day after that: doing what I love, hiking.

And sucking on almond butter packets

I woke to Godzilla at 3 in the morning. When I woke in the middle of the night I thought about laying there trying to convince myself to go back to sleep, but then I remembered I was in a hotel room…with cable! Now I don”t even have a TV in real life. Sure, Kirk and I watch enough Netflix that it’s practically the same thing, but all those channels? Dude. I watched some movies…and 3am this morning it was Godzilla.

I did end up going back to sleep for an hour or two, but at 6am i was up and making coffee, planning what I had to do before hiking out, and before check-out at 11am.

Somehow I got everything done and by 12:30 was trying to decide between the brisket on fry bread, or the Navajo Taco at the local cafe. YUM. I went brisket.

Then commence the walking on pavement again…but not for as long this time. I headed north out of Grants, and got a bit nervous as I hiked past the prision…a few were out in the yard and I couldn’t hear what they were yelling because I had my headphones on and the music – loud.

Before long I was at the Mt. Taylor trail head, and on trail! Wooooooweeeee! There is more rain and storms on tap for the next few days, so my climb up up up wasn’t too hot for all the cloud cover. I topped out at a mesa, and have a wonderful few hours of walking on top of the world before climbing up to over 11,000 on Mt. Taylor.

In fact I camped with a view of the mountain. Oh yes, we will meet tomorrow.

It’s interesting to look at the miles I’ve hiked (or think I’ve hiked, sometimes all I can do is guess) compared to the “official” CDT mileage. Because I took the Gila alternate as compared to the Black Range, and the roads compared to the longer walk over the lava flow, my milage is over 100 miles less to this point that others that took both of the longer routes. Again, not that one is better than the other, they are just different hikes…I can truly see that almost no one hikes the same Continental Divide Trail, there are just too many choices to make on a daily basis that impacts mileage and routes!

So yesterday ended with an amazing sunset. The day was another test (aren’t they all though?) of my resolve and I had to make some route choices.

I hiked out of Sand Canyon where I was perched on a ledge out of sight from the old road below, and the hiking was serene and beautiful. There were less clouds in the sky than the previous few days…but no clear sky by any means. I had a feeling I would be seeing more rain.

I started the day with a pose and some rocking music

Sand canyon

I arrived at highway 117 and was in for a LOT of miles on the pavement. I tried to mix it up by walking on the grassy/sandy shoulder of the road sometimes, but often those were uneven surfaces, and it was just easier to walk on the edge of the road even though it gives the feet a beating.

I took a break in some sage bushes on the side of the road, thinking anyone who spotted me from a car would think I was homeless or crazy or both. Hmm, maybe!

I walked through the Narrows, a high sandstone cliff that towers over the road…narrows because on one side cliff, the other side jagged lava flow. Pretty freaking cool!

I followed the road around to the towering Natural Arch that has formed in the side of the cliff. There was a pull-out and short trail to take a closer look at the arch, and a bathroom! and garbage cans!!! The simple things just make me explode with joy sometimes.

I continued on the road to a parking area where I took a nice long break and had to decided if I would take an alternate that took me over some lava flow and up a canyon to the west side of Grants (but possibly NO water on that 23 mile section) or continue up the road, there was at least one water source, but I wasn’t sure about camping options since most of the land was Acoma Reservation land; I wasn’t about to poach that. When the rain started to come in again and distant thunder was in the air, I opted for the road walk. Ok, maybe I’m a weenie when it comes to lightening, but oh well. My choices to make! From there I looked up on my phone (oh the power of smart phones!!!!!) a public land map to see where along the 15 miles of road could be a place to camp for the night. I found a pocket of BLM land was mapped…probably my only choice for a legal camp spot, so I continued up the road.

I met Montana Mike on the road

Just 4 miles later I found a sign that said BLM Campground. Huh! I didn’t know that was there, it was the answer I was looking for. Granted it was a few miles short of where I wanted to hike, but I knew not to look a gift horse in the mouth. And as if the world wanted to let me know I had made the right decision, there was a momentary break in the clouds and rain, and the sun came out as I hiked up the road to the campground. Thanks world!

Home sweet home

The spot was free and I claimed a square of ground. Soon after I met fellow traveler, Lou, who is bike-packing around the west. What a treat! The next 3-4 hours we talked each other’s ears off about adventures, plans, trips, and more.

When I woke this morning on my sandy little spot of paradise, I quickly pack up…I was going to town! Now I know I just left Pie Town, but there are towns where you have to wash your hair in a trickle of warm water with dish soap, and there are towns with hotel hot tubs, Dennys restaurants, and just about any kind of fried food imaginable. Oh yeah, Grants is that kind of town!

More road

Go road? Go Macro!

I pulled up to the Highway 40 intersection with 117 to find a Subway!!! Actually Restless Wind had sent me a text letting me know the Subway was there (He’s about a week ahead of me on the trail), so I ordered up my 6″ sub and reveled in the ability to sit in a chair at a table. (the little things!)

I hadn’t looked too closely at the map….I thought I was closer to Grants than I was…but turned out town was another 5 miles away. Ugg. Ok. Pack on, rootbeer in hand, I kept walking.

Those things are moving fast

The road is KILLING my feet. Ouch. The pounding.

I finally crept up to the Travelodge to get a room for the night. Hot tub, laundry, continental breakfast, walmart and Dennys right next door, it was no suprise to find this was a popular spot for other hikers. The woman at the front desk told me the local news had been in to do a segment on the trail just yesterday and they had a whole group that had been staying there.

I just wanted to chill, so I got a few beers, some snacks, epson salts, and various other goodies, and only left the bed and cable TV to take two showers and an epson salt bath.

Explosion!

My view

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.