We’ve been putting some miles on our boats and I’ll share more later when I’m in front of a computer. It’s been kind of nice to leave the writing for a bit, but I also have lots on my mind and look forward to getting home and having the time to dive in.
In the mean time here are some photos of adventures so far:
First of all, thank you to everyone who followed along on my hike this year! All of your encouraging and support has definitely fueled my miles.
I’ll be writing up my gear list, writing reviews of everything I used, diving into life after the trail, making some short movies…but first Kirk and I are taking a couple of weeks to road trip back to Bend. We have our packrafts and hope to get up to some adventures I can share with you.
Feels so amazing to be done!
When I woke up my stomach was feeling better, and I knew i would have a good day of walking…and WOW, I wasn’t in the middle of the granite pillars of rock like yesterday morning, but the area was simply stunning! The copious lakes, wildflowers, rock grottos and lush meadows were otherworldly. I looked up at one moment and saw a beautiful little fox checking me out. We both sat there for about 10 seconds admiring each other before I ruined the moment and reached for my camera, sending him scurrying on his way.
I swore I could see fresh footprints on the ground before me and had a feeling a thru-hiker may have passed me since I made such an early camp the night before. I came upon a NOLS group out for a month and learned a fast hiker in a white hat was just about a half mile in front of me…a white hat? Didn’t sound like anyone I knew.
There were a couple of short, steep climbs before I reached Hat Pass and the world unveiled itself, magnificent!!!!!
AND I could see the white-hatted thru-hiker a ways down the trail, I’m gonna catch him! I came up upon Toast chatting to a couple out for a week. I’d heard of Toast on the trail, but this was my first time meeting him. We all stopped for a few minutes to soak in the view. Dude. Love the Winds.
Toast and I hiked together about 2 miles before my 10+ mile side trail to Pinedale came up and he kept going, having carried enough food to get him through the whole Winds. That was a bit of a bummer, I finally meet another northbounder, and only get to hike with him for 2 miles! Oh well, that’s how the trail works.
I started down the Pole Creek side trail, and even though Ley’s maps said it was just over 10 miles, it felt longer. A brief storm passed through dropping hail and heavy rain, but it passed quickly, the mountains behind me didn’t look so lucky. I wonder if Toast ended up heading up Knapsack Col, a stunning pass, which can be quite difficult even in good weather (and an alternate). If I get up there and the weather doesn’t look good I’ll probably skip it, but I hear it’s one of the best views on the trail, so I hope I luck out!
About a mile before the Elkhorn Trailhead I ran into Marion and Bill who had been out for a week. I was able to secure a ride with them the 15 miles to town, and we had a great chat about gear and backpacking on the way down. They dropped me off at the Wind River Brewery where I had a pale ale and ruben sandwich. I left so full (I really don’t know why I get so full off a regular sized meal, what’s up stomach????) that I was in pain, and started walking towards the campground in the middle of town when Smiles, a 2014 CDT thru-hiker, stopped and asked if I needed a ride…well sure!!
She offered me a ride back to the trail tomorrow, and upon getting to the campsite, saw that it was closed….hmmmm…but there were a few tents set up anyway, so I got out and pitched my tent next to some great divide bikers. They weren’t sure what the deal was, apparently the city just bought the campground, but the previous owner was still there and said they could camp. I chatted with the 2 young guys who were biking, set up my stuff, chatted with Kirk and laid down to let my stomach do its thing.
It was a little noisy, but had a pretty good night’s sleep.
I did not sleep well. For some reason when I’m extremely tired my body decides to hold me hostage and withhold the much needed rest…and I’m developing a much deeper cough…a mild annoyance that has plagued me since New Mexico…is now a deeper chesty bark of a cough. I will need to do something about that soon.
We all roused ourselves and packed up camp in the chill of the creek valley air. We were on the road, and right around the corner entered another stretch of snow. Snow level seems to hover around 10,200-10,500…and we would be climbing to Elwood Pass at over 11,000.
The cold night had firmed up the snow, so we all walked confidently on top of the crust as the road wound up and up and up. Suddenly we had views! Oh beautiful blue-bird day, we hadnt seen anything quite so billiantly blue in a long time! However it was getting to be mid-morning and our much desired sun was now turning the firm crust into a slightly slushy mixture where every 5 steps I would break through and posthole to the ground beneath. Walk faster!! Seak shade!!
I motored around the curves of the road trying to find firm snow, cursing when I broke through. Finally Restless and I reached the point where the CDT joins the road, and stopped to spread out our wet gear on the still frosty snow…suprisingly you can still dry out gear on snow! Oh the sun.
I had already determined that I would continue walking roads to Wolf Creek Pass as the topo looked again to be a dangerous mix of steep slopes, ridgewalking on knife’s edges, and slushy unstable snow. Number 2, Restless, and Mark Trails however, were inspired by the blue above and wanted to go back on the trail.
We said our goodbyes and I made them promise to be careful.
The snow was just getting slushier by the moment, so I put on my skis and cruized the next 5 miles down the road until I hit pavement. Bliss! Skis are magical!
I took a nice long break at the end of the snow, and then began to trudge down the mountain roads…the valley was green and lush and the snow melt-off seemed to be increasing steadily…trickles and drips and seeps overflowed from the mountain sides as I walked.
When I bottomed out in a beautiful little valley I walked over to the creek running through the middle and found a safe spot to ford. Then crossed another tributary and up onto a road that would take me around to Wolf Creek Pass.
For the first time there were no other footprints to follow…others had the same escape plan I had, but now it was just me and the increasingly dark clouds over head. Hey, what happened to our blue-bird day?
I wound in and out of the ridge’s curves, started mushing through mud and snow, and hoped the sky wouldn’t open as it threatened to do.
Then footsteps! Hmmm, someone must have bailed out of the mountains here. Then more footsteps, it must be getting steep up there.
Finally I made it to Turner Pond campground…I saw the potential yoging opportunity in a place where people packed coolers full of too much food and drink. Tourists on the road for the summer would surely want to trade a cold beverage for a good mountain story! But, alas, no cars. This ugly little site had been clear-cut, you could hear the traffic from the highway up above, and the tent spots weren’t even flat! For $17 I could eat a huge meal in town, I will not be paying that when I could walk down the road and sleep in luxury in the forest.
So I did. Wolf Creek Pass tomorrow to meet Whiptale, a PCT friend, who would wisk me into Durango to have more adventures.
I knew it would happen sooner or later…bear with me as it will take a few days to get a new phone and get caught up to date on my posts!
It’s a good reminder though that it will probably happen again…either I’ll break the phone, be out of reception for long periods of time, or just decided to unplug for a while, regardless the hike will go on!
Happy hiking!
Taking the afternoon off was a good idea. My legs felt fresh this morning, and I would need them…a big climb and snow on top was how I would start the day.
And gortex socks win the day! Once I climbed up there was water everywhere. The trail had water, the meadows had water, and then there was the postholing. But my blessed gortex socks kept my feet dry and warm. Ahhhh, I’m in love.
After there was some good cruiser trail…but not before a tedious section of blowdowns. Some required climbing…others going so far around that you couldn’t find the path on the other side. Really makes you appreciate the trail crews!
Then down down down hill for a while, views! Rocks of all colors!
My view tonight is why I’m out here.
For some reason my posts from day 11 & 12 went up with nothing in them! I’m working on fixing them…good thing I type them up in another progra! WordPress did this to me before the hike too.
Check back!
What a whirlwind few days! Since arriving in Silver City on Friday afternoon it has been a smorgasbord few days of connecting with hikers I’ve known on past thru hikes, meeting new hikers that will be on the trail this year, and soaking in the goodness of Silver City, NM.
Upon arriving at our destination on Friday afternoon, we immediately headed to the Little Toad Brewery where they were not only holding a happy hour celebration for us, but unveiling a special beer just for the CDT, the Divide Trail Ale! Yum.
Hikers united over good beer, a killer raffle, and a kick-ass band playing everything from Tom Petty to Heart and everything in between.
A pie from Pie Town was part of the raffle...and devoured in seconds
We danced, ate pie, and lived to tell the tale.
Saturday was a full day of vendor booths, where I sold a grip of hikertrash swag, and connecting with the community who came out in full force to see what this thru-hiking crowd was all about. And I have to say, this is one of the most welcoming communities I’ve ever hiked through (ok, I haven’t hiked through yet…that will be in a week or two, but you know what I mean.) Kids and teens and families and retirees came out to see what we were all about, and as they marveled at the weird but interesting hikers that had descended on their town, and we marveled at the eclectic, artistic, and truly beautiful community we found.
I had a chance to reconnect with multiple folks: Erica, one of my trail crew from a season building trails in Colorado 8 years ago was now working at the Little Toad; Bams, a thru-hiker I met on the PCT in 2006 was now a brewer at the Little Toad; and Restless, another 2006 PCT thru-hiker who is also hiking the CDT this year and who had already hiked into Silver City from the border of Mexico. Mint!!!! One of the things I love most about hiking over the years is running into trail friends in the most unexpected (in this case expected) times. I hadn’t seen any of these folks since we spent time on the trail together years ago. And we can pick up where we left off. Nice.
Ericotter and I built trails together 8 years ago.
Bams & Restless
Today we had a mellow start of breakfast, putzing around, and then a short hike with some folks from Silver City. It was wonderful to connect with everyone and tell stories from our numerous hikes. Snorkle, Bearclaw, and I regaled the local hikers with our experiences, and we got to enjoy a real connection to the area. Very nice.
The most excellent day was ended with a massive bbq at Carol & Richard’s dome paradise, some wonderful trail angels; the Warrior Hikers and more came together and we ate ribs and watched the sun set over the New Mexico desert. This is what it is all about.
I set up my new SMD Deschutes Cuben Fiber shelter for my first night under the tarp, and will sleep long and dark and dream of the trail which is close enough to touch.
Leaving home is bitter sweet, especially when you have an amazing man to say goodbye to for a while. But, as luck would have it, I had a few serendipitous encounters on the plane rides over to Tucson yesterday.
I sat next to the one person I knew on the plane ride from Bend to LA; I had worked with David Rosell on and off over the past four years at Cascade Publications, and had a great time talking adventures…he’s an avid traveler as well.
On the plane ride from LA to Tuscon, just as I was getting settled in my seat, my seat-mate sat down saying, “I’m hikertrash!” I was wearing my new “Ode to Ridgewalking” hikertrash hat, and as I got to know Michael I learned he had done big sections of the AT, the Tahoe Rim Trail and more. What are the chances that the one person i sit next to on the plane is another long distance backpacker?
The day gathered steam when I arrived in Tuscon and Dangerprone picked me up at the airport. I met Dangerprone and her husband Hawkeye on the PCT when I spent a weekend near Elk Lake giving out trail magic back in 2008. At the time I was planning to thru-hike the Arizona Trail the next year, so they immediately offered their assistance in Tuscon the next year.
Ok!
In fact another couple I met that year, Slowride & Shake n Bake also lived in Tucson and had already hiked the AZT. Trail magic provides!
The two couples planned a hiker dinner last night, and as friends Allgood & Snorkel were driving in to pick me up for the CDT kickoff in Silver City, we had a whole crew of backpackers telling stories and drinking beer. Have I mentioned I love the hiking community?
Now we are enjoying copious cups of coffee before our drive to NM. DUDE! EXCITED!
When Daniel “Ratatouille” Hepokoski first contacted me because he was interested in covering the topic of “hikertrash” on his new podcast series, Trailside Radio, I was happy to oblige…trying to define hikertrash for those who aren’t hikers can sometimes be a confusing discussion. Yes, it makes sense why we self identify as dirty on a long distance trail, but Ratatouille, like others I’ve spoken to over the years, wasn’t sure he wanted to call himself trash.
Thus the podcast. What is hikertrash?
Ratatouille will be getting on his first long distance trail, the PCT, in a few weeks, and will be attempting to continue this podcast series; an ambitious but exciting proposition. When he asked me why someone would want to call themselves hikertrash, I suggested he hike for a month and then we revisit the issue.
Take a listen to the Trailside Radio podcast:
Thanks for listening!
To expand on the podcast a bit, here are some photos detailing more about my hikertrash origin story:
My first screen: a curtain stapled onto a picture frame from goodwill.
The first designs included mostly bikes. Did I mention I love bikes?
Back in 2009 on Lint‘s second thru-hike of the PCT I printed my first “hikertrash” on his pack when he passed through Bend.
Kirk helped me build a screen printing press out of 95% recycled materials for 2014’s PCT Days.
Now we make a variety of products in a rainbow of colors.
and TEMPORARY tattoos! (I love temporary tattoos)
Hikertrash has had a good first year…2 trips to the OR Show and hikers wore our hats on the triple crown trails. Dude!
Brian and I continue to come up with new designs (this one will be available soon!)
and I’ll be gathering more design ideas on the CDT in a few short weeks
As I said, getting dirty on the trail is the big equalizer. we are all hikertrash.
She-ra Hikes 