It was a dew-riffic night, and even though I had some trees over head for protection, I woke with a wet tarp inside and out. Luckily the forecast was clear so I knew I would be able to dry out on breaks.

I thought when I had reached the Idaho border last night that I had also reached the border of Yellowstone, but when I arrived at the Yellowstone border a few miles into the day I realized my error, oops, I guess I shouldn’t have camped where I did!

The trail joined an old road, and for the rest of the day I had easy walking. For some reason to block off sections of this road big berms had been bulldozed in, and you would think one or two berms would do the trick to deter whoever they were trying to deter, but no, it went on for miles.

Old road

When I took lunch I had reception, so was able to finish canceling and re-ordering my debit and credit cards. I decided to have them sent to seperate towns incase problems occured, as it was one of my cards could be fedexed general delivery to my next post office, even though fedex doesn’t deliver to post offices…when I called the post office to confirm, they agreed that they didn’t accept fedex, even though the card company assured me they could…and it had already gone out, so we’ll see what happens!

Saw another moose cross the road!

I called the Leadore Inn, where I sent another card, and let them know my situation, and if I got the card I would be happy to stay there, and Sam said even if it didn’t arrive he would let me stay and I could just owe him, dude! how nice!!!!

So I met a bunch of southbounders and flip floppers today, and the greatest reunion coming from Funsize, another Bend hiker! I hadn’t seen him the whole time on trail and it was great to catch up and hear that Delightful, the other and last of the Bend hikers still on trail, was just up ahead at the campground at Sawtell, awesome!

Funsize

I kept on trucking, got a hotdog, cheetos, and rootbeer at Macks Inn, a small resort community, and walked the 2 miles further to Sawtell where Delightful was camped with G and Funk.

I rolled up and dried out my stuff, and caught up with Delightful whom I hadn’t seen since Chama, NM. We ate a bunch of food, went on a beer run, and then the 4 of us went to play horseshoes with (forgot his name!!) a section hiker who was also staying at the campground. G and I killed it, and now I’m retiring in my tarp, not far from a busy highway. Why oh why do they put the campgrounds right next to busy highways??? I understand the convenience, but who can camp with this noise?????

Anyway. It’s night and I’m tired, so goodnight!

I thought I was back on trail when I woke in the middle of the night. It took me a long time to realize I was inside, and in an apartment. I guess I’m really ready to hit the trail!

I stayed with Andrew and Tara again, and this morning Andrew made us pancakes (awesome!) and set me up with some cash since it would be a while before I got my new cards. I can’t thank Andrew and Tara enough for taking in a dirtbag stranger and helping me out…I totally owe them big time and only hope they come visit Bend to climb at Smith Rock so I can return the favor.

I walked to the north side of town to start hitching and soon had a ride, actually a series of four rides that included a guy that worked with my trail friends g and Sunflower at Evergreen Lodge outside Yosemite, a local climber who’s life was caught up in these mountains, a couple of girls on break from their jobs at the park, and Aaron or Ghost Dog, another long distance hiker who was working in the park who showed me a waterfall and almost had me convinced to go soaking in a hotspring…but the pull of the trail was strong after a week off and I just had to get in some miles.

In true form I even left my new Vapur water bottle in Ghost Dog’s car. I went into the melee of the Old Faithful grocery store to buy another water bottle, but then felt a tap on my shoulder; Aaron had come back to give me the water bottle! DUDE! Good people!

I walked among tourIsts along a trail peppered with geisers and hot pools, stopping to take a few photos, but wantIng to move. I dIdn’t leave Old FaIthful until after 1, and I was intent on making it to the state line, some 16 miles ahead.

For some reason I thought I would be getting to Montana, but turns out it was Idaho. The trail follows the two state lines throughout this next section, so I didn’t feel like a complete idiot when I realized my error.

As soon as I left the geiser area I had the trail all to myself. I had a short little climb that caused the sweat to flow. I was feeling my week off, but then the tread evened out and I had a pleasant afternoon cruising towards Idaho.

I took a break at Sunset Lake to filter some water and noticed a couple of tents, but no people…walking on a few miles later I met the tent owners, some geologists out doing tests in the area, they had seen a lot of thru-hikers come through, which may mean some company up ahead!

I got to the state line after 7pm and celebrated with a few photos, and then hiked just a bit farther to find a place to camp.

Sleeping in yet another state!!!!!!!!!

Oh days off. Beginning with my flight to Salt Lake City on Tuesday and through my return trip on Saturday evening, the middle bits are a bit of a blur.

As expected the sudden rush into crowds of people, lights, and noise were a bit overwhelming, but as I had been to the Outdoor Retailer Show before I knew what to expect…and for that reason I don’t think I was as freaked out as I might have been if it was my first time. In fact, I loved being able to tell stories, talk trail, and see the wonder that lit up in people’s eyes when I explained I had been walking for the last 3 1/2 months and had covered almost 1,900 miles. Wonder at my sanity for sure 🙂

I connected with the CDTC crew: Teresa, Jabba, and Pete and we spent most of the show talking with present and future hopeful corporate sponsors, talking about why this trail was so important to support and protect, and also spent a bit of time in support of our other long trails: the AT & PCT.

Team Six Moon Designs (missing Brian!)

In fact the Appalachian Trail Conservancy put on a sneak preview of the new movie A Walk in the Woods, Bill Bryson’s bestselling book about a hike on the AT. It was pretty funny, and was a hoot to see Robert Redford in a comedy.

Trauma, Czech, me & Jabba at movie premier

I got to reconnect with Bearclaw who had come with her sponsor, Backpacker’s Pantry, and other hikers like Snorkle, Trauma, Zach from Appalachian Trials and many of the UL gear owners like Ron from my own Six Moon Designs, Grant and Glen from Gossamer Gear and Ron from Mountain Laurel Designs. The long distance hiking community really is like a big family, even gear competitors like to get together, share a meal and tell hiking stories. I think our niche in the market is quite unique in that way.

I was able to check in with some of my sponsors: Oboz, Point6, Sierra Sage, Six Moon Designs, Bronwen Jewelry, and also was stoked to cultivate new relationships with Backpackers Pantry and Chums.

A lot of magic happens at the OR Show…we went to go see the Yonder Mountain String Band, I met amazing climber and photographer (and really nice guy) Jimmy Chin, got Scott Jurek (the speed record holder for a supported AT hike) to wear a hikertrash hat, saw my good friend Adryon from Bend, and brushed elbows with lots of amazing people on the floor of the show.

Jimmy Chin!

Scott Jurek!

The lovely Adryon!

I even had another of my blog readers who lives in the SLC area, Gail, contact me and invite me to lunch! I’m very grateful we connected because just as she arrived to pick me up I realized my wallet was missing. I knew where I must have left it, but when I got back there it was gone. Nothing was turned in, and after retracing my steps 10 times and checking in with security I had to admit it was probably gone. Drat! The week had been going so well.

Gail & me

We went out to lunch for some amazing Mole, and then she dropped me off at the airport early so I could see about getting through security without a photo ID. She even gave me some cash to tide me over. Thanks Gail!!!!! I truly appreciate your help!

I blocked all my cards, filed a police report, and was able to get through security without too much trouble. Still a bummer that I’m now without ID and I’ll have to get some replacement cards sent ahead to myself on the trail. Ugggg!

It’s been a long week, I’m tired, not so much from the miles I must have walked on the show floor, but the constant buzz of people and conversation. It will be a relief to be back in the trees.

So close to Montana, maybe I’ll get there tomorrow!!!

I slept badly…the night has so much power to dictate the day! Clouds and wind picked up over night and the blue skies I had been enjoying the last week were covered in haze.

But it makes for killer sunrises!

I made my way down the Devil’s Canyon Shelf in the early morning passing tent after tent. So many people in the backcountry!

Soon I made a turn and started winding down the canyon below where I had camped. While still beautiful, the shelf had been where it’s at.

Finally after about 12 miles I emerged at Phelps Lake and walked the final mile to a trail head where I stuck out my thumb…I didn’t complete the loop all the way to Jenny Lake…to do so would have meant a 20+ mile day and I was eager to get to Jackson, shower, do laundry, figure out where I was staying and explore the town.

Two hitches later after a ride from a park ranger and local mushroom hunter, I was back in Jenny Lake picking up my bag and back on the road hitching south.

A climber from Massachusetts picked me up and poof, I was in the legendary burg of Jackson Hole!

First stop? A slice of pizza. Second stop? The Rec center where I took a shower, sat in the hot tub followed by another shower. I needed lots of water to help me get the deep dirt out. I would be spending the rest of the week around people and trying to make a good impression…be gone dirt!

Next up? Clothes! I passed a thrift store in the middle of town and soon had a new (to me) dress, skirt, and tanktops. The trail slipped further and further away with each hour in town.

Now where would I stay?

Meagan in Leadville had given me a lead on a friend of hers, and while I waited to hear back I wasn’t sure what to do with myself. The lack of sleep from the night before was hitting me like a ton of bricks. I was so tired I could have laid down on the nearest bench for a solid nap. Hmmmm, I decided it wouldn’t be weird to sit in the rec center hot tub or sauna with my eyes closed, so headed back over there.

I spent the rest of the afternoon there, and when I still hadn’t heard back from my contact, decided to activate plan B. When I met Beads a few days ago she mentioned that I could stay with friends of hers in town, so I texted her pal Tara, and just a short while later was headed to the apartment she shared with her boyfriend Andrew…in fact Beads was in town too!

Such great people, putting me up like that. Between Beads and I we had stuff all over the small living room, but they were most gracious!

The rest of the night we hung out telling stories and before I knew it, hiker midnight was upon us and I was ready to pass out.

Sleep! Finally!

I’m giving myself a day off. A day off in the backcountry! What luxury!

I slept in to 7:30, simply unheard of when I have to hike 25-30 miles, and am spending the morning reading in my sleeping bag. Reading, in addition to backpacking, is one of my great loves, and when I’m surrounded by quiet and no cell reception…no distractions…I can truely concentrate on what is in front of me. Today, that’s my Harpers. I’ve always found Harpers to be one of the only magazines I can read front to back, there’s poetry, essays, prose, quirky tidbits, social and political commentary…and I always come away from an issue having learned something. And I’ve downloaded a Steven King book on my phone, you know, for something easy, quick, and absorbing.

I’m only going to hike a few miles today, so laying around most of the morning is the most exquisit, relaxing, polar opposite thing I can think of to do in the middle of the Tetons. Sure I could do lots of hiking, see many more peaks and valleys, but really, my legs are tired and I have the CDT to devote my miles to.

I probably have something like 800-1,000 miles left to my trip, practically 1/3 of the entire length, but it already seems like this journey is coming to a close…why is that? I’ve heard “You’re almost done!” quite a bit lately, but am I? Some dream of taking a month to go hiking…the perspective can be quite unbalanced out here at times.

So I’ll hike a few miles today, make camp in another stunning spot in the Tetons, then hike out, hitch to Jackson, see about a shower, laundry, maybe pick up some town clothes in a thrift store, then fly to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retailer Show.

I’m quite excited to be taking 5 days off for the show. This will be my 3rd time to one of the largest trade shows in the outdoor industry, and since I’m attempting to make the business of the outdoors my full-time career, it will not only be a chance to oogle new gear and meet old friends, but a chance to drum up some work potential for when I return home to Bend and need to pay the rent.

Trying to make a career as a freelance writer and designer in the outdoor industry could be challenging, but if there’s one thing I’ve always done, it’s put 100% of my energy towards doing what I love, and in this case the writing, the design, creativity, AND the outdoors combines just about everything that makes me get up in the morning. Isn’t that what we are all trying to do in this world? Find something fullfilling, something to get excited about, and pay the bills at the same time?

I’m looking forward to this new chapter in my life – post thru-hike. If the business of the outdoors is my specialty, I hope that allows me to spend more time…outdoors! Packrafting, backcountry skiing, rafting, sea kayaking, backpacking, biking, adventuring…I have to do it to be able to write about it, right?

Ya’ll will have a front row seat as I try to make this happen, I have some great ideas of how to translate my hike into art and opportunity when I get back, and I hope this blog serves to chronicle this journey even after I don’t have to hike 25 miles a day anymore.

So to give into this day, I have hours of reading, plenty of food, and an inspiring view to keep me company.

After finally starting my hike about noon, I came upon a group and immediately a woman asked if I was hiking the CDT. When I said yes, she exclaimed “She-ra! I’m reading your blog!” What a small world! Nancy was from North Carolina, but was out for a 5 day backpacking trip in the Tetons, and she’s been following my trip from the beginning! Wow, I was flattered and excited to meet someone who had been inspired by my stories. What a treat.

So cool to meet Nancy!

I hiked about 2 miles before deciding it was time for lunch, and settled on a rock ledge for a few hours. Then I hiked another 2 miles and found an amazing spot to camp on Death Canyon Shelf. I have an incredible view of the canyon, and spent the rest of the afternoon finishing my magazine…next my Steven King novel!

View from camp

Even after a day of doing almost nothing, I’m still tired at 6:30. Tomorrow I’ll head to Jackson and get ready for my trip. It’s gotten off to a lesiurly and relaxing start!

I sleep pretty well considering my head is about 30 feet from the highway. I wake up and make some coffee and take another look at the map of the Tetons. My main issue is that I have too much stuff to backpack with now as I need to bounce some of my carepackage food ahead to myself, and send a batch of stuff home…but I want to wait until after the OR Show which is this week because I know I’ll have more to send home.

Soooo, I thought I would try my luck at heading to Jenny Lake to see if there was somewhere there I could stash my extra stuff, and then I would do a loop of some sort in the park.

Jenny Lake

I hopped on a free shuttle bus that goes the length of the park and when I arrived at Jenny Lake Ranger station, Nick, the most excellent ranger there at the office, helped me find a place to stash the goods, and helped me figure out where to go for my 3 days/2 nights. Sweet!

I headed out about noon, and the first hour or two I was stuck behind all kinds of tourists walking all kinds of paces…no matter, I wasn’t in a rush and could take my time. The crouds petered out after a few miles when we were far enough from the parking lot for the day hikers…however there were lots of people deep in the park, an encouraging sign! I love to see others on the trails, there has been so few days on the CDT with lots of other hikers, but you can see why…this park is AMAZING.

I walked around the Grand Teton; it was hard to take in the entire view, the scale out here is immense, and the meadows, waterfalls, granite walls, and wildflowers were in their prime.

I made my way up to Hurricane Pass, part of the Teton Crest Trail, what a view! A glacier hung onto the north side of the pass, and the melt below was the most aquamarine shade of loveliness.

Make way for the horses!

I topped out and began my descent into Alaska Basin where I found a rocky ledge to camp on; there are quite a few other people out here in the Basin, and it’s not hard to see why: another incredible view after another.

I made the chicken chili Brooke and Adryon sent (thanks ladies!!! Yummmmm!) and spent the evening reading the PCT Communicator and Harpers that Kirk stuck in my resupply box.

What will tomorrow bring???

I woke as the campground began to stir, made my coffee, ate a bagel and headed to the main road to hitch back the 7 miles to the trail. Even in a National Park some people eyed me warily…but I got a ride after about half an hour and was hiking by 7:30.

Lots more trees today, and some little ups and downs as I passed Lewis Lake. Not the most interesting terrain, but when I reached the Shoshone Geiser Basin there were plenty of steaming holes of water and boiling, spitting froths of deep blue water.

Yellowstone doesn't believe in bridges

Thar she blows!

I made good time to Old Faithful Village, and by 3:30 was at the post office picking up my resupply package with maps for Montana (only 18 miles left in Wyoming!) and some more care packages. Thanks Brooke & Adryon, Pete & Verona, NEMO, Mom & Dad, and Kirk! Again, so many good things to eat and drink, although I’ll have to wait until my antibiotics are done to enjoy the homemade Kalua and nips of whisky that I got!

I headed to Old Faithful to watch her blow, and joined in the 1,000 other people ooooing and ahhhing for 1:21 minutes.

I made my way over to the grocery store to get a soda and sandwich to tide me over while I tried to hitch down to the Tetons, and saw Handy Andy & Twinkle! I hadn’t seen Andy since Lake City about 2 months ago, and this was my first time meeting Twinkle…they were on their own tour of the park and filled me in on the Teton Crest Trail which they had just finished hiking. They also made a side trip up the Grand Teton, ambitious guys!

Twinkle & Handy Andy

We chatted for a bit and when they went to hike out to their campsite, I walked over to the main road to try my luck at hitching out of the park.

After 2 rides I decided to get off at Flagg Ranch and try my luck at the campsite, there had just been a cancelation, so I was able to get a spot, take a shower, and relax as the sun did it’s thing and the moon took over.

Not quite sure what my plan is for the next few days before I fly out to Salt Lake City for the OR Show in 3 days, but there is a free shuttle that heads down to the Tetons and Jackson, so I’ll hop on that and figure it out!

Another night with no furry visitors, nice! I had 27 miles to get to the road that leads to Grant Village where I could stay in their big campground without having an advanced permit. I got going early and again the morning was bitter with frost. And what greeted me first thing? A nice cold river crossing…it was too wide and deep to have any rocks to hop across, and I couldn’t imagine soaking my shoes so early in the shadows of the day, so I put on my chacos and WOOOOO that was cold!

I immediately switched to shoes and socks on the other side, but it took a good bit before I could feel my toes again. Feels like fall. On the good side this frost helps kill off the mosquitos, on the bad side, it seems too early for fall.

The morning’s hike took me along several river canyons which would have been spectacular packrafting waterways with more H20, but unfortunately the park has banned packrafting. (see http://forrestmccarthy.blogspot.com/2013/06/packrafting-guide-to-yellowstone.html?m=1 for more info…it would be an amazing opportunity to paddle the park!! I support a free Yellowstone)

The afternoon I walked the shores of Heart Lake, but the view was mostly of the trees that lined the shores, kind of boring, but later I was able to walk the shore for a while. I’m kicking myself that I didn’t throw down my pack and go for a swim; the temperature of the water was perfect! As soon as I left the lake the afternoon sun seemed to get hotter and I regretted my passing up the swim.

Soon after I met some more hikers, Flamingo, who was a southbounder, and Grimm, a flip flopper. Then I met two more: Guy on a Buffalo & Wanderer (who had hiked the PCT last year and I had screenprinted his shirt “hikertrash” at PCT days last September…and he’s wearing that shirt on the trail! Cool!!!!!!)

I hiked up and found my first boiling pools of sulfur smelling water! I’m in Yellowstone!

The pools continued and I hoofed it up a short climb before a nice flat bit of hiking where I met yet three more flip floppers: Nom nom, Apache, and Mehap. It looked like they were all having fun hiking together.

I was close to the highway, I could hear it…and you know what that means…Grant Village, cold soda and hot food!

I immediately got a ride from a nice dude and his friends out from Boston for the week and soon I was getting a campsite and wandering over to the land of ice cream and clean tourists.

As I was eating my strawberry cheesecake waffle cone, I decided to forgo the grill which offered mostly burgers and go to the restaurant.

I got trout and really relished the fancy dinner as I hoped I didn’t smell too much.

Then back to camp where a group of near-by teens were blasting some terrible pop music. Makes me feel old…turn that down eh!

I have to keep all my food and smellables in a bear box tonight, but the previous campers spilled coffee grounds all over the picnic table and ground, and there’s lots of crusty food debris as well…so much for keeping a clean camp!

Everything was covered in frost when I woke up. Brrrrr.

Scatman and I packed up and started hiking, getting warm was a priority, and for one of the first times on the trail I started hiking in my down jacket. Is fall coming already???

We soon met some thru-hikers…Beads and Kramers were coming down the hill right after (oooo, forgetting his name) and we had to stop for something like half an hour and fill each other in on our respective hikes. I hadn’t seen Kramers since soaking in the Gila Hotsprings, and this was the first time I was meeting Beads, but Scatman had met her before. It was hard to say goodbye, but eventually we started hiking again, only to run into 2 more hikers right behind them…I guess we found the herd!

Beads, Scatman & Kramers

The big excitement of the day was getting to 2 Oceans Pass where there was the parting of the river. Yep, half of the river flows over 3,000 miles to the Atlantic, the other half over 1,000 miles to the Pacific. Very cool. I filled my water from the Pacific side (hey, it’s my side of the country) and we prepared ourself for the last big climb for a while.

Parting of the waters!

Huffing and puffing the 2,000′ up to the top of the ridge was a sweaty affair, but so worth it on the top when we were awarded a view back to the Winds, over to the Tetons, and ahead to Yellowstone. We’d reach Yellowstone today!

I convinced Scatman to try napping over a long lunch (at only 23 miles to hike today we could relish some long breaks) and I enjoyed a bit of service on my phone as I lay in a field of flowers. Ahhh, this is how I like to hike.

The afternoon went down, down, down into some meadows and the trail showed lots of traces of bear…big ‘ol piles of scat littered the tread, but our talking was successful at keeping them away. I’ll happily make lots of noise so I don’t have to confront a grizz.

Late afternoon we got to the Yellowstone border! We saw some folks at the ranger station, so walked over there to check it out. A park trail crew had just arrived and were unloading their pack donkeys into the cabin. We chatted with them for a while, then I said goodbye to Scatman who had a permit for a camp a few miles into the park. I backtracked a bit so I was outside the border and found a spot in the woods. I wasn’t too far from where the donkeys were put out to pasture, which was a good thing because they had bear bells on and I figured the bells would help keep any bears away during the night.

I cowboy camped for the first time in a long time…since I was sleeping thick in the trees I figured the frost wouldn’t be too bad.

A bit ‘o reading, and then my eyes became very heavy…

I woke in the early morning to go the bathroom and saw stars out, the storm had passed! I made coffee and packed up, making my way to the main lodge by about 6:30 to start the last few miles of my highway walk before I headed up to the trail.

It was a cold morning and I was all bundled up. There wern’t too many cars on the road, and it turned out to only be a little over two miles I had to walk to get onto Brooks Lake road…I played a few new podcasts that had come recommended from Buck 30 and Treeboo…Lore, Welcome to Nightvale, Nerdist.

I got to the lake and noted all the signs warning of grizzly in the area, they sure know how to scare you, and probably for good reason, there were plenty of tracks in the mud as I walked north on the trail.

At one point I look behind me to see a figure in black walking up and it turned out to be Scatman…it would be nice to have company through this bear territory, even if for a little bit.

We talked and talked and the miles, while full of ups and downs, went fairly smoothly until we took lunch at a creek and upon packing up I noticed we were 1.6 miles off trail. Doh! Somehow we missed a trail junction.

Bushwhacking back, we found the trail again, and made sure not to get off again. Most of these junctions are not marked and you really have to pay attention to each turn.

The mountains around here are craggy and sharp, and the cold of the morning finally seemed to dissapate in the bluer sky of the afternoon.

Scatman is a fast hiker, but I decided to keep pace with him…he’s got a permit for a campsite in Yellowstone tomorrow, but I only have to do 23 to camp outside the park border in order to day hike to Grants Village inside the park. I haven’t arranged for a permit ahead of time so I can’t camp legally inside the park, but I can legally day hike, and that means a 27 mile day after tomorrow. Anyway, so this would probably be my one day to hike with him before we both go our separate ways.

It was a long day, and by the time we found a spot to camp it was 8:30. Tired!