I can tell that it’s getting lighter later each morning.

Out neighbors the beaver, loon, and kingfisher were active early…the loon belting out it’s forlorn cry right in front of our camp…not a bad way to wake up actually.

It was a two cup morning…and even though I combined it with terrain that was super easy and dreamy compared to what we’ve been hiking, I felt slow all day. I wonder if it’s the residue of all that effort it took to hike the previous 400 miles. It’s as if I need some adjustment time to the new speed of things. Now I can truly hike three miles an hour; it’s a complete 180 change, and I have trail whiplash today.

The nobos started passing with increasing frequency today, and by the end I think at least 30 had passed us, maybe 40! So many nobos, no sobos today. We even met a forest service ranger who said we were the only sobos he had seen all day, the big bunch I’ve been hiking around must be right behind me.

Oh, I almost forgot the most exciting part of the whole day! Nemo and I had just taken a break by a creek when we climbed up to the road for a short road walk and found a couple setting up an awning and table…as we walked up they yelled, “trail magic!” and we met Trail Magic Mama and The Greatest State.

This very generous couple lived in New Hampshire and had scouted out this section of trail as the perfect one to give trail magic to hikers. They had been visiting this spot for five years to feed us…in fact The Greatest State (TGS) had hiked the trail before and was section hiking it this year. Trail Magic Mama explained that TGS had been diagnosed with early onset dementia, and they knew they had to get back on the trail while they still could. The plan was for TGS to hike a section of the trail in each state of the AT this summer, and she would meet him at road crossings and be his support vehicle. This was their one day at the home trail magic spot for the summer as they prepared for the next section. I was very moved. Our family is very familiar with dementia and how it flips the script on everything. I really enjoyed the giant donuts and iced coffee they gave us, but even more, I enjoyed hearing their story. Who knows, maybe I’ll see them again in the few weeks I have left!

Few weeks!?!?! 😭

Nemo said something yesterday about having two weeks left out here, and I said, “no, it’s more like three!” But she was right.

I am definitely not in the mindset to want to do the whole AT and spend five months out here. I only set out to hike for two months, and that’s a plan I’m happy with, but the floor of my stomach dropped when I realized in two weeks the hike will be over. Ahhhhhh, now that seems too soon. I’m just getting to “trail” trail, you know, dirt-fast-hiking-trail-stuff!

Everything is change.

But, another highlight of the day was hearing that Carrie (Anonymous) finished her 500-mile section hike on the AT!! Congrats 🎉 🙌 👏! Did I tell you that I took Carrie on her first backpacking trip last summer? 4 miles round trip, and here she is on her second backpacking trip pulling a 500-mile section! So impressive!!! AND I was close to passing #2 Pencil. Carrie is now up visiting him on trail, and I would see them both in the next week. We are cooking up plans for a big rendezvous, so exciting. And NEMO and Carrie will get a chance to meet…two of the most important people in my life coming together on trail…I’m all smiles.

We still don’t know when or if I’ll take any time off soon. I’ve had a few short days out here, but no day off since Stratton, Maine…21 days ago! I wanted to stay in Hanover, but we’ll be getting there on the weekend and the hostels and hotels are either full or cost waaay more money than we want to spend on a room. We are going to have to hikertrash it up in town and find a way…my lovely Cindy (Average Joe, my hiking partner on the 2002 AT hike) sent me a gift card for a massage in Hanover. If I can manage to book an appointment last minute, I hope I can show up showered…that would be most unfortunate for the masseuse if not…

Back to the logistics…being in the nobo and sobo bubble and getting to a tourist and college town on the weekend in summer certainly is a difficult combination to manage, but the trail provides, and you have to just go with the flow, one of the most powerful lessons in long distance hiking. As Andy (CDT hiker) said, “I’m going to go ahead and not worry about it.” (One of my favorite pieces of trail wisdom ever).

Hike what is in front of you. That’s all you can do.

We make it over 14 miles before making camp. I usually don’t know how far I’m going to hike in a day…today was solid!

One more big climb to go….well, that’s what they say. I remember tons of climbs throughout the whole AT, but this should be the last technical, full-body, dangerous scramble. Us sobos actually get the better end of the deal on Moosilauke. We have to climb up a steep, wet, waterfall area filled with slick wooden steps bolted to the rock. It’s sketchy going up, but terrifying going down. I specifically remember this descent 20 years ago 😬

We woke up after a full night of rain, but had a bit of dry sky for the packing up, which was nice. The climb started right away.

We took one step at a time, and when the rain really started to fall it barely phased us, we were already soaked through with sweat. Last night has been the warmest night yet of the trip. If possible the air has been getting warmer and holding more moisture…the rain was a welcome relief and helped cool us down.

The steepest stuff was over by the time we made it to the next shelter…still over 2 miles from the summit. We found numerous hikers waiting out the rain, if fact we hadn’t seen one hiker on the trail yet that morning! Both nobos and sobos were not eager for Moosilauke, but we took solace in the fact that this was the last one…the nobos looked nervous, and they should be! They were entering THE WHITES.

We knew there would be no views today, but it was still sad when we reached the top and only had views to the next cairn.

At the summit sign we lined up with some other hikers to take photos in the wind. It’s so interesting how the tides have turned. Now that I’ve reached this point, the nobos look to the sobos with trepidation, “How bad is it?” they implore, just as us sobos watched the nobos in Maine fly through the terrain with a triumphant and haughty air.

NEMO and I flow down the mountain, the going gets real nice for a while: obstacle-free trail in a short pine forest, lovely! And then it gets steep again, just not like the other side of the mountain steep.

The rest of the afternoon brought walking that was nice and easy, and we even passed a field filled with milkweed and Monarch butterfly caterpillars.

We pulled into the Hikers Welcome Hostel (just off the trail) to find a well-organized system. Food and drinks were in the fridge, forms were on the table to fill out how much of what you took, and what you owed the caretaker. We drank sodas and hung out for a while in the shaded back yard. Other hikers milled about…this was a popular slackpacking base, and hikers arrived after their pack-free hikes (slackpack: someone drops you off and picks you up at the end of the day…road to road day hikes with a bed at night.)

Back on the road. Literally.

We had a short two miles to reach a lake where there is supposed to be a nice camp, and there is!

We swim and are serenaded by a chatty Kingfisher (Marina!).

What will tomorrow bring?

It rained most of the night, but we woke to clear skies. The trek to the kitchen area and privy was a long one….I dropped things and slid around in the mud on my way there and back…a foreshadowing for sure.

It was still darkish when NEMO and I made our coffee; we would really need to fortify ourselves for the day ahead. You see we are still in New Hampshire, and the hard bits of trail were all around us. Several notable hard days were the next two. Welcome back to the AT NEMO! Let’s do the hard stuff first. She had a good attitude about it, and really, she was faster than me for much of the day….she always has been a fast hiker.

We make the first big climb up to Kinsman Mountain North and found the cloud was back. No views today.

No matter, we continued on to Kinsman South and took a snack break. Actually we snacked on North too, we need to snack all the time to make a dent in these food bags.

We meet a few nobos who tell harrowing tales of the next section…the one they just climbed and we had to descend. Others had told me about this section too…you know it’s notable when this descent is a topic of conversation off trail.

It goes down the quickest way it can: straight. The rain soaked everything and added another layer of terrifying, “will my knees hold out, or will my feet slip out from under me?” to the morning.

We finally leveled out and surveyed the damage. Still walking…so that means we go on.

We pass nobos throughout the day, and they have a glazed daze on their faces. It’s the look of exhaustion that started hours ago.

I’m sorry poor NEMO for bringing you to this for your first day! But really, most days are like this…some say Vermont will be flatish in comparison. They whisper this to each other, hoping it will be true. Sobo hikers get their feet held to the fire on the AT, if they can withstand the heat, pain, and struggle of the Northern 450 miles, they can withstand anything.

Ok, maybe I’m being a little dramatic here, but it’s kind of true.

Back to it!

The hiking gets nice in places, it does! Rolling dirt trails with only the occasional root or rock. I start to dream of 20 mile days….could they be possible some time soon?

We finally roll down to the next notch (this one is called Kinsman), and find a trail head where there are rumored to be trash cans (a VERY big deal when you are out here) and a voice calls, “Trail Magic!”

NEMO and I look at each other wide wide eyes. “Oh baby!!” I think. We walk over to find Stiches, a 1999 thru-hiker, who brought a table full of treats. I crack a warm root bear open (have I told you that cold root beer is my all-time favorite trail fantasy drink? Warm root beer is my third favorite…the second being a cold beer of course) and soon I was eating cookies and enjoying the other hikertrash.

Thanks Stitches!

After a bit we thought about trying to make camp before the next storm arrived (this afternoon? Evening? Night? The forecast is rain almost every day for the next week…) and thrn we stumble up the next section of trail until it starts to go up, then find a nook to set up in.

What sweet relief.

We hiked just over 11 miles today, and it took all day.

Tomorrow would be harder.

I love you NEMO! Thanks for doing this with me! 🥰

The bed was cozy and I slept late….until 6am.

The morning was filled with coffee, food, and milling about the hostel. It was all very relaxing.

NEMO was due to arrive about noon, being delivered by her husband Pouch (trail name) and their 8-year-old son Rewan. NEMO, Pouch and I all met while thru-hiking the PCT in 2006, and those two fell in love. A trail romance grew into marriage, and I was there to see the whole thing! These three are part of my extended trail family and I love them very much.

They arrived with much fanfare (on my part). Because we were going to originally meet at the trail head, she brought me a full resupply. I didn’t need to carry 5 days of food, but she brought such yummy things that I threw most of it in my pack. I already regret the weight (I probably took much more than 5 days worth…this is the heaviest my pack has been this whole time), but I will be eating well! And I’m with one of my very best friends, so all is good.

Pouch drove us back to the trailhead and soon we were on our way. The going was mild and we took a swim break by a lovely creek and most excellent swimming hole. It rained, it rained hard, but it didn’t really matter, we were already wet with sweat.

Oh boy, NEMO is getting a taste of it right from the go. There was climbing, stairs, steps blasted into the rock, and wooden steps bolted to the rock. Straight up was the name of the game for the afternoon, but the sun came out and entertained us with its light play on the mossy green that carpeted everything around us.

We made camp in one of the last AMC fee campgrounds on a tent platform and I did my best to make a dent in all the food.

It rains a lot during the night.

Team She-Mo is back together!

Today would be the Francinoa Ridge walk, another highlight of the White Mountains. It included summiting the imposing peak of Mt Lafayette and miles of alpine ridge walking.

I got an early start. On these town days it’s my MO to push hard and fast…why? Because I can. It’s fun to find your style (or styles) of hiking out here. When you are solo you can do exactly what you want 😉

Maine has prepared me well for New Hampshire. I feel good and strong. I can hike anything!

It looked like I would have views for the ridge when I popped up on top of Mt Garfield, but by the time I got up Lafayette the clouds had moved in. I had great views of a mist that shrouded the landscape, but no matter, it was cool and refreshing in what had been some hot weather lately.

I took a short break on top and started moving before I got too chilled. The tourists were coming! Today was a Saturday and as I started walking I encountered a steady stream of day hikers smelling fresh.

I threaded my way between them as I descended from the cloud, and even though I was hiking fast and hard, it still took me 6 hours to cover the 10 miles. Whew.

I had to walk an extra mile to get to the Flume Visitors Center where there was a food court (!!!) and while I was there I texted the hostel. They came to pick me up before I even had time to finish stuffing my face with pizza, and a few miles later I was in North Woodstock getting the tour of the Ski Club lodge that opened their doors to hikers this year.

It’s a fantastic place, and once there I found Gormet! She had decided to zero here, so I was able to catch up on all that had happened since I last saw her.

Every day feels like a week out here.

It rained hard, and I could see lightening flashing from behind my closed eyes. I stayed dry though and no rain splashed in my tent this time.

The morning was dry (well, nothing is ever dry out here, there is a persasive dampness to everything, myself included), and the walking was flat. That’s right! Not a typo! The first five miles of the day were FLAT!

On top of that the trail was lined with berries. It seemed like no one was eating these beauties because there were so many, so, I did my part and grazed my way through first snack. Later I found out everyone had been eating their way down the trail….that’s how many berries there were in that section!

I arrived at Zealand Falls Hut to find some of the sobos I knew and a few I didn’t. More arrived as I basked in the rare ray of sunshine in the misty and cloudy day. The weather over the presidential traverse had bunched us up…there were about 20 sobos within a day of each other…we are the bubble!

The hut had gingerbread out for sale – gingerbread is one of my favorites so I had two giant pieces with some coffee. I’m loving these hut snacks!!!! The waterfalls were pretty cool too, another feature I know Kirk would love. I keep thinking that I need to bring him out here so we can paddle, ski, hike, and adventure in these places together. I think he would love it. Kirk has gone full kayak bro this summer since I’ve been hiking. He’s been kayaking 2-3 times a day some days! We live close to the whitewater play park in Bend and he’s gone back to his first love: play boating, and has even enticed our friend Tosch into the sport (Tosch makes the phanny pack I’m wearing on the trail…check out his company, Free Range Equipment). Play boating is when you paddle in a standing wave and then do tricks, spins, cartwheels, flips…it’s the freestyle fun of kayaking. Kirk is immersing himself in the river while I’m immersing myself in the trail….😁

I walk through the day, through some clouds and around the rumble of thunder, but nothing falls from the sky. Bits of views pop up here and there, it’s a pretty nice day of walking.

I put on a new podcast, Off Trail, and choose an episode with Cookie Monster, a hiker I met on the CDT, and now owns the coffee company Triple Crown Coffee. Give it a listen, he is a kindred spirit and I love how he explains his passion for coffee, hiking, adventure, and life.


I wasn’t sure how far I would hike today, but with the easy walking this morning I found the miles adding up. When I got to Garfield Ridge Campsite I did the math and saw I was only 10 miles from the next road and where I was due to meet NEMO the day after tomorrow. Hmmm. After hearing from some other hikers about the hostels they were going to stay at when they reached the road, I decided I would go too. I could have about 24 hours to rest up before NEMO got here, and then would be ready to immerse myself in the woods for a week with her. I called the new hostel that had been getting rave reviews in North Woodstock and made a reservation. I’m excited!

Now sleep.

It is another day.

When I packed up and headed out of the campground I saw both Fat Chill and Anna (now with the trail name Moose Boots). Let’s hear it again for all the solo ladies!

The hike from Mizpah Hut to Crawford Notch and the next highway was at times as steep as they come, but also frustrating. There was more overgrown trail pulling at my hair, and I lost the trail twice, walking out small side trails till I realized my error and backtracked. Come on AMC! Use some of our money to brush and adequately mark this trail please! I ran into a nobo hiker that was confused and wondering if he was on trail too, so it’s not just me.

There were views though. Weather would be moving in this afternoon, but for now the views were intact and the mountains most impressive.

I was down at the highway by mid morning and still determined to take a shower. The day was hot and humid, so I knew any refreshment I would get from my bathing would be short lived, but I didn’t care. I needed to knock some of the funk off.

It took a while, but finally a car pulled over and I met Maggie, or Risky Momma. This amazing woman had just walked from her home in Portland, Maine to Chicago! She kept to roads and carried her stuff in a baby stroller, thus the “risky momma” moniker. A fellow adventurer! The ride was short to the state campground that had showers and laundry, but we exchanged Instagram handles (@margaretacrossamerica if you want to follow her too).

I walked into the campground didn’t see a person; made my over to the shower building and saw I needed quarters and soap. I didn’t have either and since I didn’t see any staff, walked around looking for campers. I met a girl and her dad from DC that took interest in my plight and they gave me some body wash. Then I met a man and his wife from Cape Cod who were also curious and he gave me a small bar of soap and changed a few dollars into quarters for me. Since I didn’t have any laundry soap I decided to take a hobo bath, or a shower with all my clothes on. Before I went in, the campground attendant Matt came around and we had a good chat. He even offered to give me a ride after I was done.

I got 10 minutes for my quarters and washed myself and my clothes multiple times. I had enough quarters left over to then stick everything in the dryer. While I waited I finished the Neil Gaiman book I had been reading and charged up my devices.

Ok, cleaned up! Next on my list was lunch. The AMC Highland Center, a few miles the other direction from the trail, offers thru-hikers a $6 soup, bread, and beer combo, so I had Matt drop me off there where I cashed in on the deal and hopped on wifi for a bit.

I bought a few more things in their store including some new socks. Somehow one of my pairs had gone missing this week and I found a nice colorful pair to take their place.

Then I tried hitching to get back to the trail. My thumb was out for a while, then my tyvek sign I had made, but no luck. Finally I saw a woman walking up to her truck and offered her money to take me the three miles I needed to go. I was practically in her car before she said yes 😏. Sometimes you have to help these things along. She lived in the area and was very pleasent….and would not take my money when I put it in her center consol.

I guess it was time to hike. I kept my sandals on…I knew I had a climb, but was pleasantly surprised to find it gentle and well graded. Nice! And then I had a great flat section of boardwalks that brought me to my day’s destination at Ethan Pond. It was early, I had plenty of daylight to go further, but I really didn’t need to. This would do.

I’m glad I made it in when I did. The campsite was busy with lots of thru-hikers, summer campers, and an REI backpacking group. I was able to set up on dirt on an overflow camping spot, my choice, so I could ride out the storm without the splash backs into my tent I experienced last time it rained when I was set up on a tent platform, and the other time when I had to bail on the shelter when it got too full.

And rain it did tonight! The lightning was bright and thunder echoed in the mountains around us. What a show! But I stayed dry and fell asleep somehow while it continued into the night.

I’ve been on a trail a month today, having climbing Katadhin on July 3 and now here I am ready to climb Mt Washington on August 3. I can’t plan these things, they just are, and are beautiful.

It was a cozy night in my bunk, and at one point I woke in the night to go to the bathroom and looked out the window to see the clouds had cleared, and the big dipper perfectly framed in the window. It would be a good day.

Breakfast was oatmeal, scrambled eggs, and cornbread, and soon after eating I was huffing my way along the presidential traverse. The views were incredible…the storm had cleared all haze from the sky and I could see we were surrounded by mountains in all directions. It was a stunning day.

I felt strong and fast. It was a proper She-ra day. I reveled moving my body through space and time. This place is spectacular. Words just cant…

I pass hiker after hiker, practically floating up to 6,288′ and the summit of Mt Washington. Three trains passed me as I approached the mountain top, passengers close enough to wave at me (yes there is a train and a road people can take up to the top….I know!)

And then, people. I topped out and was overwhelmed with hundreds of tourists milling about. I made a beeline for the bathrooms and cafe. The food selection wasn’t bad and I quickly ate a piece of cheese pizza and hot dog before deciding to do a small but expensive resupply here. I just needed a few days of food to make it to my rendezvous with NEMO soon.

I saw lots of other hikers in the crowd, you can spot their ragged, tan, and dirty legs in the mix of fresh faces and white t-shirts. We also walk around with a shell-shocked look to us.

I was approached by some folks who saw me hiking up from the train, and chatted with them for a few minutes, but in general didn’t engage the crowd. I dumped my trash (you have to take advantage of every trash can you can!) and made my way outside again. The line to get your photo taken with the Mt Washington summit sign was ridiculous, so I snapped a few selfies with other parts of the summit and carried on.

The trail down to Lake of the Clouds Hut was glorious, and filled with people too. No matter, this day was probably the most view-worthy day of them all, and I was entranced.

I might even go so far as to say it was a fairy tale hiking day. If you are thru-hiking, please do yourself a favor and time your traverse right. Camp high, stay high, don’t rush it, and wait for good weather. As Model said later in the day (she passed me at the end of the afternoon), “Is this what the PCT is like all the time? Easy hiking with all these views?”

“Yes,” I replied. I had been thinking the same thing. “Yes, all the time.”

No offense AT, the presidential traverse is a small taste of what the west has, but this is a special treat because you don’t have it all the time.

But the other big difference is the people. So many people. That is the compromise.

Industrial tourism…working?

And I walked.

This was an afternoon that called for Radiohead, that heady floaty music would see me through rest of the day.

When I saw Model, I realized that I’ve met a lot of sobo solo ladies out here: Gormet, Model, Fat Chill, Anna, Teri Beri… I love it! And my girl Carrie (Anonymous) is still hiking north, now solo as Mr Pencil is motoring up to finish the trail, and she is soaking in some solo hiking time too.

It gets hot. I feel parched by the sun. Roasted even. I take out my pagna and tent it over me for shade while I break, and drape it across my shoulders when I hike again to save my already sun-scorched skin.

A few miles from camp I meet Mary and Mitch from Wisconsin. They had driven out to hike for a few days and were next headed to Acadia National Park on the Maine coast. There they would gaze at the sea and drink wine. That image was so overwhelming that I found myself yearning for the same thing: to sit and watch the waves for a while, wine glass in hand. But I was here, having the most fabulous day. That possibility will be here soon enough. Kirk and I are pretty good at doing that very thing on the Oregon coast.

Someone mentions cheese, and we go into the talk of cheese curds in Wisconsin. Mitch was from Stevens Point (my birthplace!) and we all proceeded to talk about school trips to the cheese factory…cheese really is a major part of the culture).

Ok, the day is getting long and I’m getting tired. I twisted my ankles several times today, each time quickly walking it off, but the trail is getting rockier and steeper and I need to pay attention so I don’t seriously hurt myself.

And then I get to camp on the side of Mizpah Hut with many, many other hikers.

By the time I lay down for bed I felt disgusting. It had been a week since my last shower and laundry and I felt positively sticky. I would be getting to a road tomorrow, and even though I didn’t need food anymore, I started to fantasize about washing my hair. Maybe….just maybe…

The morning came quickly and I was a good little hiker and made coffee and ate breakfast in the cook area.

If the weather was supposed to move in about 11, I wanted to give myself enough time to get up and to the hut by then. As I mentioned before, most of the next few days I’ll stay above treeline and there are few to no places to hide from a storm.

The climb was steep and sweaty through the trees, but when I popped out I could see everything: where I had to go, the notch where Madison Springs Hut was where I would be staying tonight, and even Mt Washington, where I would be tomorrow. The clouds were amassing, but I had time.

What fun! The boulders that so many nobos complained about descending were a lot of fun to climb, and they were all tucked into patches of blueberries. Occasionally I would lean over to pop a ripe one in my mouth. I love this type of hiking!!! (Let’s add a few more for good measure!!!!)

I am so excited to be up here in good weather. Some would say this is the pinnacle of the AT, some would say this is a frustratingly hard part of the AT; because I’m not trying to push miles I say it’s an awe-inspiring privilege to hike through the Whites. I love to hike uphill, I have my hiking legs now, and I keep thinking about Smog slumbering somewhere below in the mountains. This place could just be magical.

I take my time on the hike to Mt Madison, enjoying the day and the hike. After a few long breaks I can see the clouds building over Mt Washington and decide its time to head in. Each of the huts welcomes any hikers who pass by to stop, hang out, buy a cup of coffee, baked good, or cup of soup. I do all three today.

I cannot explain the exquisite luxury of laying in my bunk in the middle of the day, snug, dry, comfortable, and watching the storm move in… popping peanut m&ms while reading my new book, Neverwhere by Neil Gaiman. Pure bliss. Knowing there is a hot meal (make that two hot meals!) coming my way and that I can just frolic outside and be in the middle of the presidential traverse makes me feel like the richest lady on earth. Now this is platinum blazing, and it’s worth every penny.

I start chatting with the woman in the bunk across from me, and you will never believe the connections, or maybe you will.

Leslie and her family are from from Ashland, Oregon. She worked a long time for Outward Bound and I know some of her good friends in Bend. She also teaches at Southern Oregon University and knows the young lady from the Fort McDermitt Shoshone Tribe that I was working with for an ONDA trip in June. (That was a very impactful volunteer trip I led to the site of a potential lithium mine that would impact the Tribe, sagegrouse, lathontan cutthroat trout, the rancher who grazes in that area, and many other plants, animals and people who live there. It’s also near the Oregon Desert Trail. Read this for more on that issue).

So yes, my circles of life overlap out here. Maybe not so surprising after all, but it reminds me that I’m where I should be, doing what I should be doing, and making connections all the while.

I spent the rest of the afternoon making a big dent in my book, working on a puzzle, and talking with other hut guests (there are about 50 of us!)

Dinner was a ruckus affair, the menu was enchiladas, complete with bread, salad, green beans, rice, and chocolate cake for desert.

Worth every penny.

I woke from my nest in the trees and made quick order of my morning chores. I had a breakfast to get to! I knew better than to hike on an empty stomach, and quickly poured a smashed pop tart down the gullet. And I’m glad I did. The first 0.7 miles took a loooong time. I was still descending Wildcat and it was slow going.

The sound of traffic egged me on, but the hiking was not quick. When I got to level ground I still had a mile to go, and the mile was choked with roots and rocks, so it slowed my roll.

I got to the visitors center just after 8am, and found a bathroom to clean up in…and put on a dry sports bra and shirt….that feels so much better! Up to the cafe where I find there is no breakfast, maybe because it is a Monday morning. They only made enough for the overnight guests, but offered that I could still pay the $13 and eat what was left. When I looked over the very slim pickings, I didn’t even see $5 worth of food. Fortunately their deli opened at 9:30 so I’d only have to wait an hour for real food.

I purchased some expensive snacks from the gift shop and went outside to hang out on a picnic table, eating a chocolate bar to curb the beast.

Lots and lots of shiny and clean day hikers milled about. I could smell their soaps and deodorant on the breeze….ahh tourists.

At 9:30 I head back in to find they haven’t finished unloading their bread delivery so it will be another hour till I can eat. Sigh. I only have 5 more miles to hike today and planned on hanging out here for a long time, so resign myself to being hungry for a while longer.

I head into the dining room and post up next to some other hikers and charge my electronics. Crazy Eyes and Aces were nobos, both from the Midwest. We had a good chat and when I mentioned my name, Crazy Eyes knew me! He had listened to several podcasts that I had been on over the years. Very cool, and I may have another Oregon Desert Trail hiker on my hands after I explained what I do in real life. He was finishing up his triple crown and it sounded like a route would be a good next step for him. Nice!

After lunch I had had enough of the front country, so put my pack on and waddled away from the people, electricity, and good smelling soaps. I had a very full belly after the deli finally opened and I ate and ate and ate.

I was looking for an easy-breezy afternoon, so to put me into the mood, hit play on a yacht rock playlist I had just downloaded.

The walking was most excellent and mild. There was a bit of climbing and just after I crossed the road to the summit of Mt. Washington heard some movement off to my left. I saw a hairy something! I gave a shout and looked again, not a bear, but a moose! My first moose! Then I hid and backtracked because you don’t want to anger a moose, they can be mean and definitely can be more dangerous to encounter than a bear. I tried to keep some trees between its line of sight and me, and finally it moved on and I skidaddled down the trail.

At the next stream I stopped for a break. I had tons of time to make my destination, so started reading another new book I had downloaded from the library at home.

Soon I was joined by a nobo, Warehouse, for a bit. He was a sweet kid from Texas and in a short time we got pretty deep into it….trail philosophy if you will.

Then onward. I arrived at Osgood Campground about 3pm, and had the rest of the afternoon to set up and do some more reading. I would only have 3 miles to hike tomorrow to the next hut where I would wait out the storm and pretend I was a good-smelling tourist, but those 3 miles were straight up, and it sounded like a brutally steep climb. Definitely a mile-an-hour type of trail.

I was all alone until just before dark when a bunch of people arrived, just having come down from the presidential traverse. A group of girls squeezed themselves onto my tent platform, as I tried to sleep.

Finally I did.