After a solid night of sleep, I went downstairs to the breakfast Maria had prepared. As she usually has up to four guests per night, there was no way I could eat the whole spread: fruit, yogurt, cereal, bread, eggs – but I did my best 😁

I had a lovely chat with my hostess – she had just moved to Vila Chã from Porto this spring and started hosting hikers soon after. She had tried the Camino herself until an injury took her off the way, and now she brings the Camino to her! I told her about the trail angel culture in the US and assured her she qualified. She offered me help at any point along the trip, especially since Santiago is only an hour or two drive away
🤯.

We talked a bit about the heavier things in life… the reason I was out here and hiking without a pack, and she shared her struggles with the death of her husband. She advised me not to focus on the past, including the possibility of getting sick again, and instead go forward. She is so right. There are many metaphors out there, but each step on the Camino is a step forward. Pam, my friend at home who is about 6 months ahead of me in her healing cancer journey, likens it to white water rafting. Instead of looking at the rocks you don’t want to hit and will surely cause disaster, look at the way through – the green tongue. And in skiing trees, the very first thing Kirk taught me, look for the openings: look where you will go, not where you will smash into branches. So yes, I’m looking forward. I’m taking the chemo port out and living as if there is a tomorrow.

I was back on the boardwalks this morning and enjoyed the quiet of dunes and waves before reaching the next large town of Vila do Conde, where I would enter the city for a short spell away from the sea. Surfers tried to catch waves before I got to town, and the numerous signs made me look up the Portuguese word “onda,” especially since I was wearing my “Get ONDA trail” Oregon Desert Trail shirt today. Turns out it means wave. Hmmm, “Get wave trail” – not the best translation, perhaps “Get on the wave?” Or “The wave is the trail?” 🤔

Once in town, I had many choices of where to go, and it being time for a coffee and sit-down, I went in search of a cozy spot and found Villa Cake, where I indulged in a chocolate éclair today instead of my usual custard pastry. I’ve been eating pretty modestly, outside of my morning indulgences, but I definitely need to splurge on a nice seafood dinner one of these days…I’m surrounded by the freshest of fresh!

A few stands of jazz escaped onto the patio where I enjoyed my morning treat, and it prompted me to put on the Kind of Blue album that I used to listen to all the time in college. That will be some nice company as I walk through town.

Because I chose to stay in town instead of walking directly to the coast, I enjoyed a glimpse into day-to-day life in coastal Portugal. This is a tourist seaside town which features a casino of all things!

Once back on the waterfront, I walked up to a couple who were wearing Hyperlight packs… a Maine company, asking if they were from the states, and sure enough, they lived in Denver. Earlier in the day, I chatted with a fellow who was wearing Altra shoes and a Gossamer Gear pack. He was from the Czech Republic and said he had met so many Americans out here, and said I must visit Prague… I’d love to put that on my list, for the travel bug has bitten! An old friend from Portland, Barbara, is Czech. Perhaps I could look her up for a visit?

The rain, or drizzle, started again after lunch, but it was intermittent and warm enough that I quickly overheated in my layers of gear.

Tonight, I will be staying in a relatively new Auberge, back to the dorms for me!

I’ve been medicating myself with memes on my breaks, and I loved this one:

My friend Dana sent me a Frida Kalo book that I haven’t started yet. I’m eager to get into it when I get home!

Fast forward to my Auberge experience..ok, I 100% understand and support walking without a planned lodging option each night, but I was the LAST to check in for my reserved spot at 4pm. AND many pilgrims were turned away from the place. I got to the lodging “late,” but when I went into the bunk room, people were just listlessly lying there with nothing to do because they needed to stop so early to get a place to stay. Coupled with the fact that many places here don’t open for dinner until 7 or 8pm, and I’m like, WTF? What do you do for HOURS before dark, or dinner, or whatever? I sat in the lounge and chatted with a gentleman from Austria who is hiking this route for the third time, having hiked the French route 3 times already too, and I just don’t understand stopping so early if there is nothing to do and people aren’t hanging out? They are on their phones? What am I missing? And I’m on my phone because there is no one to talk to…I invited my bunk mates to the pizza place down the street, and no one took me up on the offer. Ok, to be fair, I get there and it’s closed for another hour…I like to eat dinner at 5pm, so American! I’m in bed by 8 or 9pm, what’s wrong with that? Not sure what the purpose of this rant is, other than this is not the place for early birds. I guess I’m the one who needs to do the adjusting 🤔