I was up too early by European standards. I went in search of a place to write in the hostel and ended up overlooking the train station as described yesterday. I watched people start and finish adventures before the first coffee shops opened. How do they manage? How will I manage? Writing uncaffeinated will be an experience.

I hung around until the hostel’s free breakfast at 8am, having dropped my suitcase off at the front desk for the luggage transport folks, and headed up to the third floor for a spread of rolls, meats, cheeses, and a few other random items.

I was walking back up to the cathedral by 8:30 and started down the steep stairs, where I would meet the river for my walk to the sea.

Joggers, bikers, and other Camino goers were also on their way, walking with the low tide. I thought I’d spy a café right away to stop for my first break, but I didn’t find an open one until I was almost at the ocean. There was no need to rush…I had only planned 6ish miles on my first day cause I didn’t know how the flights and my body would do, but I have gobs of time and more than enough energy…I’ll have to saunter and take lots of breaks today.

I ordered another Pasteis de Nata and a cappuccino for morning break. I learned from my friends Sage and Adam, who made a trip to Portugal a few years ago and walked some of the Fisherman’s Trail on the south coast, that each of these Portuguese pastries is unique and takes on a slightly different flavor. This morning, mine was served with cinnamon on the side, and I could definitely taste more nutmeg than the one I had yesterday. Yes please!

From there, I strolled to the sea and rounded the corner from river to ocean. The day was warm, and people were walking everywhere. I spotted other Camino walkers, but everyone kept to themselves…this is not as friendly an experience as a long trail, probably because there were so many people. A linear trail in the wilderness filters the serious walkers from folks out for a stroll in an urban setting. I’m not sure how I feel about that yet. Seems very easy to avoid engaging at all 🤔, but Im not here to be in my own echo chamber the whole time, so I’ll have to make a more concerted effort at truely meeting my fellow pilgrims.

I was making too many miles, so stopped and stared at the water from time to time. I could have walked further, but will on every other day after this one, so I’m trying to be OK with easing into it. Old habits are hard to break!

I visited an old fort that was named for a block of cheese (really!), and watched surfers in Matosinhos. Curious art lined the path and lots of sun bathers braved a cool breeze to soak up some rays. It appears that rain is moving in tonight and tomorrow, so I’m glad my first day was a dry one.

I checked into my next hostel, and the room with six bunk beds was so small that only one of us could really unpack at a time. I walked around aimlessly for a while, trying to decide if I wanted dinner or not, and ultimately decided to get a slice of pizza from a local spot. Eh, not the best pizza I’ve ever had, but then again, any pizza is usually good pizza.

I hurried back to the hostel just as the first drops of rain started to fall.  Day one: wish I could have kept walking.