Morning comes so early in June. The sky starts to lighten around 4:30-4:45, and the birds start chirping…life starts moving around, so that by 5:30 or so when the sun actually rises it day feels like it’s well on its way.

I woke for my last morning in the sagebrush (on this section anyway), made my coffee, ate the last of the gronola, and was hiking just after 6am. I would keep to roads the whole way. A dirt road took me at the base of Hart mountain and east side of Hart Lake. I knew there would be pictographs today, so when I started seeing large boulders that had fallen from the rimrock above, I started to look. They were everywhere! Many of the rocks had drawings, this must have been a popular route back in the day. Again, I want to do more reading about the area, learn about the native Americans who lived here, and about the first homesteaders.

The bugs were really thick along the lake. I didn’t stop for any breaks because to do so would be to surrender to them.

I passed several springs… the springs usually have big cottonwoods, so you can see them miles away, and they are usually the location of the old homesteads. So much history.

By the time I made it to the pavement (9 more miles to town), my feet wanted me to take a break, but again the bugs! A couple of guys were unloading ATVS to go explore some of the old military road. Again…want to know more about this old military road.

I was walking on the road when a pickup pulls up and asked if I was ok, “yep, just hiking the Oregon Desert Trail,” i responded. Jesse is a local rancher who has actually been following my hike, and knew who I was! We chatted there on the side of the road for a while, I learned his family had been one of the first homesteading families out here, and they used to run cattle in Orejana Canyon where I had been a few days before. I was glad to meet him and hear a bit about his background. My hope is that I can get to know a lot of the ranchers and families along the trail. Ranching and conservationists haven’t always gotten along in eastern oregon, but perhaps the trail is an opportunity to find common ground: a love of the land.

I continued on the road, and when I was about 2 miles out another truck pulled over to see if I was ok. Neil Taylor was another rancher in the area, and when he asked if I wanted I ride, I decided to take him up on the offer. Even though he was going the other way, Neil turned around and deposited me at the Hart Mountain Store. Thanks!! I’m continually thankful for the generosity of the people I’ve met out here.

I went into the store and Dave, the owner fixed me up a double bacon cheeseburger with fries. Oh heaven!

I hung out at the store for a few hours, pulled a book off the shelf (a lot of the little towns have a book exchange area) and sat on the porch reading until check in time at the Hart Mountain Cabin down the road. A few hours later Allen, who owns the cabin with his wife Barbara, came to the store and let me know I could head over. He had tried to call, but there is no reception in town. So a bought a few more goodies at the store and headed over to the cabin.

Oh beautiful little cabin!!

I spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning up, soaking feet in Epson salts, reading the book I picked up, and watching a movie. Kirk pulled in about 9pm bringing lots of birthday goodies….but he was the best present.

Feels good to be 39! Although I feel much younger. It may be that hiking keeps you young. I’ve always loved having a summer birthday, and it often means a trail birthday!

I had a slow morning over coffee, granola and some more of my book. The first few miles were quite marshy…no shortage of water in the Hart Mountain area.

The terrain started to dry out some, and by the time I got to the edge of the refuge it felt like I was back in the desert. I did spy a pronghorn family…two little babies with their folks ran away from me right before I dropped down to the base of Hart Mountain.

There was a possibility of hotsprings at the base…it is on private land, but the springs are open to soakers. The thing was I had heard it was getting trashed, and the soaking tub might have been removed. I had my fingers crossed.

And there it was!! Some kind of tub was lined with a few tarps, and the water was clear. A pipe was spilling hot water off the side, I moved it into the tank and jumped in.

Bliss.

I got out, had lunch, and got back in. All to myself with a stunning view of Crump Lake.

After I walked a few minutes down to some trees and had a little nap in the shade. This day was going to happen on its own with no need to rush.

I hiked on a few more miles and took a minute to call Kirk. My section hike is finishing tomorrow, and he’s driving down to spend the weekend with me at the beautiful Hart Mountain Cabin. Happy birthday to me!

I put in my order of steak and cake for him to bring from Bend tomorrow. I’m excited to see him. Two weeks apart is much better than the 5 months last year!

I passed some petroglyphs, saw 2 arrow heads, and there should be more petroglyphs tomorrow. I’ve got an awesome view at camp, 15 miles to hike tomorrow, lasagna for dinner, and a Twix for desert. Getting older is awesome!

I took the morning off.

I had found a little slice of paradise at the Refuge,  and wasn’t in a hurry to go hiking quite yet. My night by the rushing creek was very peaceful, and when I woke in the middle of the night to go pee, i stared at the sky for a good long while. More stars than I had seen…probably ever. And the Milky Way glowed bright in the sky.

When nature called early, as it usually does, I went to the privy, and then over to the hotsprings for an early soak. Again I had it all to myself, and could feel the heat soaking into my bones. I went back to my camp, popped my latest round of blisters (I wanted to wait until after my soak so I would have any open wounds in the water) and then went back to sleep for a few hours. Bilss!

It was almost 9 when I woke up the second time, and heard Joan and Mark moving around, so I went over and returned their cup I had used for wine the night before. I also gave them an ODT sticker I had with me, my only real way of saying thanks at this point. Joan immediately offered me a muffin, some figs and a few gronola bars. They were headed out for a day of wildlife viewing, and i hope to see them in Bend sometime soon.

I returned to my tarp, made coffee, ate the muffin and the rest of the berries they gave me last night, and started to read my book. I had picked up “Child of the Steens Mountain” (a signed copy!) by Eileen O’Keeffe McVicker in the Frenchglen Mercantile. It was slim, and I wanted something to read about the area I’m hiking through. It’s a sweet tale of growing up in a shepherding family in the 20s and 30s near Fields and the Steens.

I lay about in the shade for the next few hours willing my blisters to dry out and toughen up before hiking out in the afternoon.

I love hiking in the refuge. Because is hasn’t been grazed or burned  (at least in a while…) the plant and animal variety were incredible. It seemed lush, and there was very little cheat grass or invasive weeds.

I had a break at an old homestead, and thought I could easily live here. With a spring a mountain, and a meadow what more could you want?

I kept walking, Guano Creek was lovely and lined with aspen trees. The air smelled the sweet aspen smell and reminded me of Colorado.

I came to a stand of pines. Ponderosa I think. It was the first I had seen these trees! This was the site of camp Warner, I believe an old military camp. I need to read up on the spot. While I was there a white Fish and Wildlife pickup pulled up. I met Dave who works for Oregon F & W, he works out of Hines and was checking on fish in Guano Creek. We had a nice chat, then I sat down for a late lunch. Tomatoes, a kiwi, and figs, compliments of Joan! That’s all I really want to eat out here: fruits and veg, but that’s the hardest thing to find. There has been little to no produce in any on the towns/stores I’ve visited.

I walked a few more miles, noted a discrepancy between what’s on the ground and on the map…a minor change to make back in the office. I’ve been making lots of notes of things I want to add to the trail resources, for example today I passed 4 outhouses! All with toilet paper! It’s the white gold and can make a world of difference to know it’s there if you are in need.

I pulled up for the night in some trees at the base of a ridge. When the wind blows the mosquitos arn’t bad, but I may have to put up my netting tonight.

What a day!! Where I struggled with the hike, trail magic and generosity more than made this one of the best days out here so far.

I woke early in the sagebrush. I had just over a liter to make it 7 miles to my first water source of the day, so I even did the unthinkable….I went without coffee. In retrospect that might have contributed to my sluggishness later on, or it could have been the heat/humidity, or all of the above.

The morning hike on old roads went quick, till I discovered I missed a turn. The other road was so obscure I had a hard time seeing it even when I knew it must be there. I had entered Hart Mountain Refuge this morning, and when they close down a road, it gets reclaimed. I lost and found it several times until I was almost to a more well traveled road when I see a beer. An unopened beer! There was a note and I could just make out “Go Renee!” but not the signature. I sat down and opened it right there at 7:45 this morning. Sweet As Pale Ale from Goodlife brewing…not a bad way to start the day!! I later found out that it was Christof, a guy who will soon be attempting to run the trail. He has been running the sections on the weekends to prepare, and must have left this for me recently. Thanks Christof!!!

Soon I made it to my water source, Rock Creek, and after filling up lay down and closed my eyes for a minute. I fell asleep, and was a little groggy when waking, which could have contributed to my slow-as-molassas pace after that. Or it could have been the beer.

Most of the day followed old closed roads, but again, I couldn’t see the road. I stumbled around sagebrush and rocks. The going was very slow. I started to blame the heat, it must have been in the 90’s, but then realized it was extremely humid. Thunder clouds were brewing, and after lunch got a brief reprieve when a few sprinkles fell. It was still humid though, and even though I didn’t have that many miles to make to hit the Hart Mountain Refuge Headquarters, I just was moving so slow. And the cross country terrain and sweaty feet was giving my blisters blisters. I was feeling low.

Please just rain!

I finally made it to Poker Jim Spring, a fresh, clean and cold water source, and started to feel a little better. The “road” actually turned into a road at that point, or at least a 2 – track I could see. At this point I knew I wouldn’t make it to the refuge before it closed, but they have a water pump open 24 hours, so at least I could get clean water. I had slim hopes of making it to the hot springs, another 5 miles past the refuge headquarters at this point. Even though it was hot, my body could sure use a soak.

I was getting close, right around the corner in fact, when a truck pulled up and asked if I needed anything. In a spur if a moment I said I wanted to go to the hotsprings,  and they said “sure, jump in.” Lori and Don helped me get water at the pump and before I knew it I was there. Don hiked the PCT in 1990, so knew all about being a trail angel. Thanks!!!

Don & Lori

I set up camp, cleaned up and made dinner. It had been another day of not wanting to eat due to the heat, but the campground was cool, and I was able to put away an entire dinner. Whew. I needed that.

I had a soak in one if the sweetest hot springs I’ve been to, and i had it all to myself!

When I got back to camp I said hello to my neighbors, and before I knew it Joan and Mark (also from Bend) were giving me fruit and a cup of red wine. I just couldn’t have imagined a better ending to a tough day.

I’m sleeping by a rushing creek, and am so tired I’ve gotta go.

Excellent day.

The day started with a short sprinkle, but then it passed quickly. I wish the clouds would have stayed with me today because it was bloody hot was I was wilting most of the afternoon.

Mostly road walking this morning, it was quick going and at one junction in the middle of nowhere I happened upon a stop sign. Hmmm. I had seen this stop sign in other thru-hikers’ photos and here I was! Later on the same road I came upon a “Log Trucks” sign. This rancher must have a sense of humor. No trees for miles.

I stopped for a long lunch at Buckhorn Spring, which was really just a dank cow mud hole, but it was the last water for the day and the next morning, so I tried to ignore the rancid smell, prefiltering the brown water through my shirt- twice, filtered it through my Sawyer Squeeze, and then added a few drops of bleach to each liter. Yuck. 6 liters later I’m still imagining it could make me ill. I’ve drank lots of water like this, but it’s been a long time.

This is after all my treatments...Still brown.

This afternoon I decided to take a side trip down into Orejana Canyon. At the bottom I found another cow tank with water, at it was about the same condition as the last one. I primary walked in the dry creek bed which was mostly a mixture of sandy rock. There was small puddles of water most of the way, but again they looked stagnant and brown. I had already filled up anyway. The going was slow, I was baking in the sun, and the heat was making me not want to eat. All day I was forcing myself to eat little bites, but had no appitite, and I’m sure that made me slower. The canyon was pretty, and towards where I was going to hop back on the trail, big boulders the size of cars started choking up the canyon.

By the time I made it on top I was done. The trip in the canyon had tacked on some miles, and I was ready to stop walking.

I’m set up in some sagebrush again, I haven’t seen trees all day.

I only ate half my dinner, which is a shame cause it was a Backpacker’s Pantry Beef Stroganoff. I wanted to make a strawberry cheesecake for desert (another BP delight), but I didn’t want to waste it if I wasn’t hungry.

Tomorrow I’ll hit the Hart Mountain Refuge, and will pass by the headquarters at the end if the day. They have water and bathrooms! That sounds down right luxurious right about now.

My feet & legs feel great! Time to hike!