Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 17: 10.7 miles (193 total)

It’s Kirk’s birthday! I will celebrate by climbing some mountains and not eating cake (I sure hope he eats some cake though).

Ok wet rain soaked trail and rocks…what will you bring me? 

It rained alllllllll night. I didn’t stir super early and emerged when the deluge started to slow down. Three tents had appeared since I tucked myself in last night, and all the occupants seem wet and tired from the ordeal too.

I was the first one out of camp, and wasn’t sure how treacherous the going would be up the two high peaks today. The hike up was your typical rock and root gauntlet, and then I entered a cloud. It wasn’t worth checking out the many view points along the way, there were no views today. 

When I got to treeline my knees started to shake. The wind was howling…like mach force wind howls and I worried about getting blown off the mountain. It was ripping, and I took my first few steps out and felt pushed over by the velocity, so got into a crouch and hobbled my way up and over the exposed summit parts as close to the ground as I could get….sometimes crawling. Thank goodness I weigh alot! I am super nervous, but my mass successfully holds me to the ground. Ok, first one done, now to the next.

I climb up to the second peak. Thankfully this one has less exposure overall, so I’m up and over that one using the same technique. Into the trees and I give a big sigh of relief. I find Trout Lily waiting to go up, unsure of the safety of it all. I share some tips and comment that her pack cover might act like a giant sail in the wind….that could be really scary. 

My phone stayed in the pocket for most of this.

Ok, time to go down, but the downs out here always involve some ups too. Go figure. My legs are burnt, but I keep going.

I look down and notice a slug on my leg. I’m glad the woodland creatures think I’m one of them, but the slug has to go.

Why do they think it’s OK to call this trail? The acrobatics contine most of the steep way down the mountain. This is ridiculous. 

I finally put on some music to keep the moral up and Annie Lenox’s song “Why” was playing when I was bouldering down vertical waterfalls. Why indeed?

Finally the trail flattened out and the sun appeared. Thanks sun.

Then the road! I cross to the other side and see a man waving me over. Trail magic? Trail magic!!!!! Bourbon Batman has a trunk full of coolers and snacks. It’s my first legit trail magic of the trip! I grab a PBR and some oreos and revel in the luxury. My shuttle ride shows up a short while later….I’m staying at the Maine Roadhouse tonight (and maybe tomorrow night too). My body is beaten: knees screaming, back sore, shoulders tight. It’s time for a rest. All of southern Maine is as rugged as the past few days and I need to mentally and physically prepare myself in the comfort of a cozy hostel.

Jenn picks me up and soon I am showered and wandering around her beautiful place.

The rest of the afternoon/evening involved showers and laundry, burgers and beer, meeting new hikers (Gormet…from Oregon!) And seeing old (Hero pulled in just at dark).

I talk to Kirk and find there is no cake, so I’ll just have to make one when I get home in September.

Not walking tomorrow will be devine.

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 16: 16.7 miles (182.3 total miles)

I can feel my legs coming in.

My speed this morning was helped by the rolling flat terrain. At morning break I came to a stream and met a bunch of new hikers. More sobos! They seem like a fun bunch and I flip flopped with them most of the morning.

The build up to the day are the Bigalow Mountains. One of the peaks is named Bigelow Avery for the man who had the idea for the Appalachian Trail. It’s rumored to be a very difficult range.

And it is!

The approach up Little Bigelow was deceiving.

I had stopped for lunch and a cool down at the lean-to on Little Bigalow, and the trail had been gentle and well-graded. At the time, I had been thinking of going to a campsite between the highest peaks, but I was also keeping my eye on the weather. Heavy rain and thunderstorms were due to start this afternoon. Climbing a steep difficult mountain over 4,000′ in the rain at the end a 15-mile day might not be a good idea. (It never is)

From the shelter I go up, but the trail is short and easy (relatively speaking! I’m comparing to Katadhin here…) to the top of Little Bigelow. So short and easy that I let my guard down and shifted mindsets. Too soon. #^$ got real.



I had already decided to stop at the bottom of Little Bigelow where there were some campsites 0.3 off the trail. I had turned on the computer to check the weather and it was coming in sooner than expected. Ok, quick check of the elevation profile (down) and I went into end-of-day-chill mode.



Just a nice meander through the trees to camp, right?

Wrong.



Welcome to full body hiking. It was an acrobatic descent, and I suddenly realized that I was EXHAUSTED.

Steeps so steep you had to throw the poles aside and lower yourself down. Steps so high that you weren’t sure how short hikers managed. And all of this would be extra terrible in the rain. Yikes!

I kept picking away at the boulder problems ahead of me and at one point switched to my chacos because my left little toe was screaming at me (the only one with a blister….kind of proud about that).

I wasn’t there yet, but the rain wasn’t either.

“Step by step. That’s all you can do. One step at a time. Don’t get lazy.”

I repeated my mantras to myself again and again and the legs got more and more stumbly.

Finally the campsite sign. 0.3 off trail. Uggg! The trail in was like a secret handshake: complicated. It involved caves and more moves than I had left.

I peeked around, there weren’t a ton of options. I chose a wooden tent platform thinking that if it did rain alot that I wouldn’t be stuck in a puddle. I set the tent up before it really started coming down and made my nest.

The only thing that sucked though was when it did start raining, the water splashed off the platform and into my tent. Still wet…but not soaking.

Then my back did a little twinge and I got real worried about it. Just what I need! But I can’t focus on that yet. It was 10 miles to town where I could dry out and probably take a zero day (my back!), but it was over the most demanding climb to date since the big K, and it was going to be wet and rainy.

Oh man.

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 15: 10.4 miles (165.6 miles total)

Some teenage boys were making a racket into the early hours last night. Kids!

I still felt rested when my body gave me the early morning wake up call, and I took advantage of the showers to scrub another layer of funk off.

The plan was breakfast, hitch to resupply, and then hitch to the trail. Over blueberry pancakes Hero suggested seeing if the Sterling Inn down the road could give us a ride (the have shuttles for guests) and once we saw they offered a full resupply too, I called and made the arrangements. We had 45 minutes to eat. Pack up camp and be back at the lodge for the van. Ok, go time!

And we made it with minutes to spare. Resuppy options at the Sterling Inn were perfect….some of these little hostels or hotels will create micro stores for hikers with everything they might need. It’s a win win. The hostel makes a lot more money off hikers who stay there and keep remembering things they need (or want). The hikers don’t have to hitch or move. These places also often feed you things like mass quantities of pancakes (I missed that feast at Shaws in Monson).

Then, the trail. We rode with Puddle Duck (one of the hikers I had been hiking around during the past week). She had gone into the Sterling Inn to resupply while Owl and their dog Smokey waited on the trail.

Then, ferry time! Fording the Kennebec River can be dangerous because un-timed dam releases upstream will unleash torrents that can raise the river 2-4 feet instantly. Hikers have died trying to cross, so there is a canoe ferry for hikers to get across in a sanctioned “aqua blaze.”

Hero and I loaded packs into a canoe, our oresman was a boater dude who mostly works as a raft guide in the summer and liftie at Sugarloaf Ski Area in the winter. We talked Oregon rivers as he paddled us across. I tipped him some PBR money when we got out, and he said it would probably be Modelo money instead (Modelo beer is better when warm).

The hiking was good. We followed a series of waterfalls up and when on top, ran into Bob, the trail maintainer for this section. We were near Harrison’s Pierce Pond Camp…which offers hikers lemonade during the day and some of those AT pancakes in the morning. A shelter on Pierce Pond (appropriately named Pierce Pond Shelter) was the ideal spot for hikers to camp at night, and then walk over for breakfast in the morning.

Bob took us up to the lodge, which offers cabin rentals…I want to come back!…for a look at the place. It was a rustic log cabin with the feel of history. We sipped ice water and got a tour of the place. The windows overlooked the bridge we had just walked over, and upstream, a waterfall. Just about as idelic as they come. The porch hung high off the forest floor and hummingbirds flitted about in the trees and flowers. Ahhhhh.

It was not a surprise when Hero said he wanted to camp here and eat pancakes in the morning. He actually said that later after we got to the shelter and he had gone swimming in the beautiful lake… I was eating my cold pizza at the time. I wanted to carry on, so we said our goodbyes. We will surely see each other again down the trail, for that is the way of the trail.

I lumbered through the forest, wearing my chacos again. They just feel so good and I like having my feet out.



I crossed paths with another new hiker, a retired nurse from Tennessee who was finally able to take the time for a long hike. She was hiking solo and I enjoyed talking with her as we continued to leap frong each other. (She stops for a break, I pass her. I stop for a break, she passes me, and so on).

I caught back up to her (completely spacing her trail name right now), and we walked along the shore of another pond (really the size of a lake). We talk and she finds a campsite, so decides to stop. I carry on and pass Puddle Duck, Owl and Smoky making camp, say my hellos, and keep going. When the trail turns into the forest I decide to try and find a spot too. There is a lake and views!



And then I am reminded that this is the land of the leech. I watch them poke around in the rocks after I took a carefree dip in the pond. Shudder. Hero and I googled leeches last night on wifi…they have sharp teeth and will drink from mammals, fish, birds, and even other leeches. Akkkkk!

Dinner is ramen.

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 14: 18.8 miles (155.2 miles total)

I said I would be ramping up the miles, and here we are. With yesterday’s easy miles and today’s promise of pizza and a hot tub, I decided to go for it. I mentioned towns and services would be getting closer together, and here we are…Caratunck was just over 18 miles away. Let’s go!

I had been hoping to see Hero again, we had great fun last time we hung out, and what would you know, when I climbed up Moxie Bald Mountain he was having coffee on top! I threw down my pack and hung out for a while and told him my plan of hiking to the Northern Outdoors near Caratunk for dinner and hot tub soak (camping on site), and convinced him to come, even though he did 20 miles yesterday. We had a few climbs between us and town, but most of the terrain looked like cruising. 

On we go!

We chat and laugh….Hero has been living in Alaska but has recently moved back to Alabama where he was from. It was good to have company on trail again. 

We hiked and hiked, taking lunch on one of the mountains….it was a steep climb up and down, but when is it not?

His legs were starting to scream at him and I started getting a blister on my little toe, but town!

It was after 6 when we reached the highway, Northern Outdoors was 2 miles down the road. We stuck out thumbs out as we walked, and went to a small pull out where we stopped and gave the road our biggest smile as we hitched. Finally it worked, a couple that was summering up here from Tennessee picked us up; we were their first hitch hikers. Nice folks.

We got out at our destination…a stand-alone little resort…and got a campsite. First order of business: tents up. Then dinner and drinks. I hadn’t had a pizza on trail yet, so I took the opportunity to get my standard pepperoni and mushroom….so cheesy…it was perfect. After dinner I took a short shower and jumped in the hot tub. It was close to closing time,  but even that little bit of hot immersion was divine.

We went to our tents much later than usual, but it was worth it. I have pizza to pack out tomorrow and we’ll have some breakfast at the restaurant before getting on trail. Tomorrow is the mandatory canoe shuttle across the Kennebec River! A major milestone 🙌.

P.S. Please forgive my spelling and grammar errors, I’m in the woods! And know I don’t catch them all.

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: 2022 – Day 13: 17.9 miles (136.4 total)

I feel discombobulated as I hike the first hour of the day. Too much food. I take it slow….but the terrain isn’t slow today. It’s flat and fast. The nobos speed on by. This flat trail is perfect for the town day push.

The forest helped me ease me into the day; a gentle roll of tread held me by the hand, sunlight filtered in through lush leaves, and the birds chirped the day awake.

Earlier Ron had dropped me off at the highway where I hitched in two days ago. I know I’ll be seeing Ron again, he is section hiking the ODT afterall! (Ron’s trail name is Zen Quake…I don’t think I’ve mentioned that before.)

The ease of the terrain lets the brain play. Thoughts wander and flow around topics and ideas…I’m having so many ideas out here… I have this incredible need to learn and grow and evolve continually. Hiking the AT again 20 years later is giving me a good touch point…where I’ve been, where I want to go, and what I want to do. I’m taking lots of notes (again, another useful thing about having a computer in your pocket.)

I listen to music today, it’s amazing how the miles flow…I heard a bunch of new and wonderful songs from one of my favorite podcasts: All Songs Considered. This was one favorites from Yard Act and Elton John, “100% Endurance” – fast forward to 19:10 for the song.

I laughed out loud as I walked on the soft forest floor. Yes! How can you not want to hike forever when you hear a song like that. I love it!

I play lots of good hiking music. I’m loving this song too: SAOKO by ROSALÍA: (my favorite part starts at 1:58. Imagine walking to this beat…

I am Chaco walking too…there were a couple of fords today and I just left them on. They felt so good until I gave my toes a good zing…actually it took me two good zings to where I thought I had certainly gashed something wide open before I put my shoes back on. Yikes!

That could have been really bad!

It’s hard to stop walking, this is legit PCT tread.

But then I do at the Moxie Bald Mountain lean-to. I claim a tent spot and go check out the water. I find Shorty (nobo) napping on a granite slab that stretches into the water: a perfect spot. We chat for a bit, she seems rad, and I go to get my things for a pond-side dinner.

I splash off a bit, just standing in water up to my ankles when a 6″ leach comes swimming over to take my blood. I jump back…can it smell my funk? How did he know to come over? 

I won’t be swimming today. He approached me like a heat-seeking missile. That guy meant business and I don’t want to give him the opportunity. 

I make mac and cheese and struggle to eat it. Maybe I snacked too much, maybe I’m still feeling the food from yesterday. Regardless, it’s a lovely evening on the water.

I lay back for a minute and it feels so delicious that I could stay there forever. That’s a good sign that I should be in my tent before I fall asleep for real.

I start a new book on my phone (World of Wonders by Amiee Nezhukumatathil.)

My eyes close well before dark…

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 11: 6.8 miles (118.5 miles total)

Everything is dirty and wet. I am becoming one with the forest floor. Where do I stop and the earth begin? I think you will have to use the smell test.

Town day! 

I’m packed and ready to go by 6am with visions of warm water and clean hair dancing through my head; food can come after I defunk.

I turn to see Bilbo had camped close on the other side of a grove of trees, and here I thought I was stealth…guess not! We start up the next climb (of course there is always a next climb) and my town-legs-to-be power up and soon I can’t see Bilbo behind me anymore. No friends on town days!

I hike full speed ahead, but everything is wet, including the slabs of rock that are sometimes called trail. My feet slide…the tread on my shoes is deteriorating quickly (they weren’t new to start, but I had hoped to get more miles out of them) and I go down. Wooooop! I don’t damage anything, but take the wet slabs a little slower the rest of the morning. I pass nobo after nobo, they smell cleaner the closer I get to the highway. Really! A feral nose can pick up on the soap, detergent, and deodorant of the freshly washed like it was fresh bread. Mmmmm, fresh bread….Ron said he would make some for my stay. Hike faster!

I speed by a shelter, not stopping to sign the register or even say hello to the hikers still packing up.

When I can start to hear the trucks rumbling up the grade, I know I’m close. I pass a large group of hikers and they tell me I just missed the shuttle to Shaws…the hiker hostel in Monson. No matter…I’ll hitch.

The road!! I walk over to a gravel pullout, take off my wet and smelly shoes and put on mu sandals and then stick my thumb out. 10 minutes, nothing. 20 minutes, nothing. I see a car in the small parking lot is leaving, so I jog over and ask the driver if I can pay him 5 dollars to take me into town…it’s only 4ish miles away. Success! I stink up his car and we are off.

First stop: Shaws. I check out the gear store and buy a few things. I’ve desperately wanted a second sports bra…my bra has been wet for a week and I want something dry to put on. I will keep a pair of socks dry and now this bra dry while hiking….camp clothes! Then I pay them $5 for a shower. Ron offered to pick me up from the trailhead, he only lives 10 miles north of the trail, but I wanted to do the hiker thing in town for a while. I see Hero and we make plans for lunch. I tour the hostel…they have a great thing going here! Hikers everywhere… Hero and I walk to the Lakeside for an amazing sandwich and beer on the shore of Lake Hebron. This is living! I hope to hike with Hero after a day off…he’s great fun.

I meet Ron and he whisks me up to Greenville. I claim a room and take another shower, do laundry, eat, chat, eat some more (that fresh bread is amazing!), and relax. Ron made a baked chicken dinner and I turn in early after chatting with Kirk. 

It was a great day for my first town stop…tomorrow will be a zero (no hiking day) as I ready my body for the next miles ahead. 

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 10: 13.6 miles (111.7 total)

I take it slow. My back has started to give a few little aches that has me paying attention, and so I move through the world intentionally this morning. Sometimes the mantra I have to repeat to myself is “Gently.” That is today.

The rain will come later, but as I sweat up more rocks and roots I decide I will welcome it. It won’t really matter since my clothes are soaking wet already; it might actually help the smell.

I have this good thing going with the world. We take care of each other, scratch each other’s backs if you will. On a snack break the sun broke through the clouds to give me a quick hello and help dry out my sweatiness. I love it out here.

I take a selfie and note my haggard look. I look rough with bags under my eyes…but no matter. Nature doesn’t judge, I’m free to be me….crows feet and all. 

I go down the other steep side (all sides are steep sides out here), and walk with the threat of rain through the neon moss greens. I don’t drink a ton of water out here. Am I desert acclimatized to the point that my body absorbs the thick humidity through my skin? Feels like it.

Nobos come and go. No one is real talkative today. And then 100. An enterprising hiker made the sign out of sticks: 100 miles from Katahdin! I met both 100-mile markers today: the one celebrated in sticks, and my total mileage. I’m counting everything I walk in this blog total up top, that climb up Katadhin? Counts. The extra 0.2 (both ways) to a camp spot? Counting it…that’s almost half a mile! 

It is a quiet contemplative walk today. I really really like hiking solo. I can do exactly what I want to do when I want to do it. It’s a real asset out here to be comfortable alone. I’d love to see more people enjoy their own company. Don’t get me wrong, I love hiking with friends too…the perfect hike is a mix of the two, so far this trip is winning.

A staircase of tree roots stretched into the sky – a spiderweb of footholds and tripping hazards. I had to pick my foot up just above the eroded tree root or risk a faceplant.

I can do it!

More walking and I cross a few fords that could be dangerous in high water…which makes me a bit relieved to be over them before the heavy rains start…which they do about dusk. 

I look for a hidden spot for camp…by the way, hikers mention “stealth spots” for camping in the comments of the Far Out app all the time. There is nothing “stealth” about a camp spot right off the trail for all to see. Stealth means hidden, and so I stealth for reals and find an amazing waterslide/falls/swimming paradise for my day-end dip. Amazing.

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 9: 13.8 miles (98.1 miles total)

It was a 2 cup of coffee morning, and I had enough to make Mary a cup. Sharing is caring.

The woods made a perfect nest, the temps were warm, but not too warm, and the breeze ruffled the leaves in a most delightful melody. We both woke up refreshed.

Mary would be heading home this morning…it was a short visit, but we covered many bases for a friendship that had been on pause for a while, and we made big plans…Hayduke 2026!

We jaunt on down the trail, and before long meet an AT ridgerunner coming our way. The rudgerunners are a resource for hikers, and help keep an eye on trail conditions for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and trail maintenance volunteers. This one stopped and said: “Wait, I know you.” It was Deja-Thru (formerly Critter) who is another badass female hiker. We hadn’t met before, but she recognized me from all the public hiking stuff I’ve done over the years (strange to call myself a public figure…in very small circles at least) and she had met Mary on the AT in 2016 when Mary was doing her winter AT hike. Small world!! Deja-Thru (love the trail name!) was lovely and we talked trail and took some photos. Another hiker pulled up, it was Digger who remembered meeting me on the PCT 16 years ago…wow, it’s trip down memory lane!

After a few more minutes we carry on and ford the Pleasent River…I put on my trusty Chacos for the walk…and wore them the next half mile to the road crossing and my next resupply. I haven’t worn the Chacos yet for any trail miles…usually I wear them for about a third of my miles each day, but with my foot issues I am not rushing into them out of extreme caution. I don’t want to upset the delicate balance of foot and shoe; things seem to be going really well there.

Mary and I are at the road only a few minutes when Ron pulls up again. My trail angel to the rescue! I give him my trash, he gives me food. What a great thing we have going! Rambling Rose passes through too. I met Rambling Rose when I was waiting for Ron at my previous food drop and here he is again. He gave me some hostel tips for the towns ahead. Many thanks RR! It wasn’t long before I was packed up and ready to face the next big climb: Chairback Mountain. Oofta.

We say our goodbyes and I start up. Today is in the 80s and a storm is coming, so it is humid and hot. The sweat is pouring and I keep going, only pausing once or twice in the whole climb to let some hikers pass and to drink some water. The legs are getting much stronger, but they are nowhere near the power I know will be coming after a few more weeks.

Up, up, rocks and roots, up, up, mud and rocks. I run into three guys near what seems the top, but it’s not; I have the boulder wall to climb. After that I top out on some granite slabs and a view of trees and lakes….such a green landscape!

It takes a while for the sweat to stop, and my shirt stays wet for all the humity and lack of breeze. I’m plagued by flies…at least they aren’t biting. I’m still not using bug spray, and am getting a few large welts from the tenacious ones, but overall am doing OK. I have sharp cheddar and summer sausage on a bagel for lunch, and more cherries. Thanks Ron! I’ll be taking a day off and staying with Ron when I reach Monson. He lives a short distance away, and I think it will be fun to relax and talk trail while my body enjoys not hiking for a day. Did I tell you Ron has two sisters who live along the Oregon Desert Trail? One in Christmas Valley and one in Lakeview…two of my trail towns. Now it’s REALLY a small world. 

After lunch I go down the mountain. It’s either up or down out here, and steeeeeep. I take another short break at the next shelter and meet two more sobos and their dog; Smoky is the first dog I’ve seen out here. Then onward. I go slow and listen to some music to help the pace. 

Then there is Third Mountain and Fourth Mountain. Lots of little summits today. On the way down I run into a trail crew. Yes! It is the steepest section of trail yet, and they are in the midst of building some rock stairs. The group is on a break, tools are spread out, and they sit among a grip hoist and comealong….getting those rocks into position is a feat and an art. I am so in awe. I chat with the group for a few minutes….my appreciation flowing out in many thank yous. Working on a trail crew is one of the hardest and most rewarding jobs ever…. especially in Maine. If you haven’t volunteered yet for a crew near your favorite home trail, please consider giving them a day or two a year. Our trails need all the love they can get!

Then up, again.

This trail demands 120% of your available effort, and then often you still have to dig deep and find another 10 percent.

I am feeling the long day. The start of a blister and heavy legs give it away. I walk to a small creek before stopping to find camp and there is Bilbo! He passed me and Mary and when we were enjoying coffee time on White Cap a few days ago, I thought he was behind me. We both had our eyes on a small campsite nearby and set up our tents in a cloud of fatigue. 

Now to get horizontal…

Appalachian Trail Sobo Section: Day 8: 7.5 miles (84.3 total)

I woke up early today….my clock is ever shifting earlier and earlier. Last night it was still light out when I lay down about 7:30, but my back and body felt so good in the position that I had to stay there. Then I realized how tired I was and suddenly I was going to sleep well before sunset. Ah, hiker midnight. So when my body wakes me up at 4:30 and I count that I’ve been sleeping for 9 hours already, I start to make coffee because that seems like the most logical next thing to do.

Speaking of coffee, Mary (Speedstick is looking for a new trail name) and I make some on the summit of White Cap Mountain, a stunning collection of granite rock, short shubberies, and thick mosses. It’s a beautiful start to the day and we gaze at Katahdin over a relaxed morning. 

We don’t have to hike far, just within striking distance of Katahdin Ironworks Road where Ron would be meeting me with my next resupply. I only have a few days left (looong days, I am going to notch up the mileage a bit and see what happens) to my first town stop in Monson. Monson is a huge milestone to the sobo hiker. Us sobos start with some of hardest sections of the whole trail when we are soft and new. Us sobos have been spinning stories about the hostels, showers, food, and resupply available there. Ahhh town, the call is starting to get strong. It’s day 8, and I’ll get to town on day 11 🤞, and not one shower in all that time. Phew.

After our leisurely morning we hike down out of the clouds to a smaller series of mountain climb and descents. We don’t see a lot of hikers today, we are in a quiet spot, but that’s OK. We can focus on catch up with six years of life stories.

We chat the miles away and only stop for water and snacks. We lunch at a shelter and talk with a nobo for a while. He has already hiked the PCT and CDT and was close to getting his triple crown…although he was not very enthusiastic about the AT. Which is a shame. The AT is so unique, it doesn’t always get a fair shake in the trail comparison game. He says: “Green tunnel, not many views, hard terrain with little reward.”

I say: “The AT is amazing and has its place; maybe leave more time between 2,000-mile hikes so you really want it when you get out there.” I didn’t really say that to him, but I was thinking it. Some of these hikers are out 3 years in a row. No wonder you are ready to be done! That’s an incredible amount of hiking in a short amount of time! I had 4 years between the AT and PCT, and 9 years between the PCT and CDT, and now 7 between the CDT and AT. It makes a difference…all the difference when you haven’t had a good long hike in a while.

We carry on and stop early to make camp near a pretty little creek and valley. Mary is hammocking, I haven’t had luck sleeping in them, but she seems to love it. I’ll have to give it another try. Ron (Moak- of Six Moon Designs) gave me a Hennessey Hammock a while back, I should bust that out.

I try and cool down the rash in the creek (it IS looking better, but far from gone) and Mary is brave enough to take a full dip. 

I seem quite silly at dinner when I refuse to leave my screen tent and Mary is out among all the bugs, but she wears the 100% deet, and I’m not ready to go there yet, at least until my skin clears up…so the technique is avoidance.

I’m closing my eyes early again, it just feels so good…