I had so many vivid dreams last night, and in the morning felt very rested. The Marinhas B & B put out a wonderful breakfast, and I had my first Pasteis de Nata heated up….the warm custard and flaky crust took this treat to another level! Mmmmmm.

Today’s route stayed up in the hills away from the ocean, and I loved walking through neighborhoods again. Roosters crowed, and it was a delight to see how different houses bedazzled their homes with vivid paint colors, exotic tiles, and curious sculptures. There was so much to see.

Then there was trail! Real trail in a forest! I had to put on some David Bowie and do a bit of frolicking through the forest to Let’s Dance.

Then the route climbed and climbed up to a beautiful church where I got a stamp for my pilgrim passport and had a coffee with a couple of women from Holland. The day was stunning and views of the hills made the climbing all worth it…plus it felt good to use some other muscles to walk, sometimes the flat is too flat. I chose to wear my chacos today, but brought my shoes just in case my feet needed a break later on.

Just as I was getting ready to leave, Adrian and Ignacio walked up. So I chatted with them while they took a break, and we walked together the rest of the afternoon. There was more trail and lovely forest, then many miles of cobblestone streets which took quite a toll on all of our feet.

We had a quick beer break in a slim sliver of shade and then started off again. I learned Ignacio had strong convictions about staying in the municipal auberges, and would not reserve ahead of time, thus the rush to get to there by 2 or 3 in the afternoon for a good chance at getting a bed. It reminded me of the early days on the AT, where folks would rush from shelter to shelter to get a spot, especially if it was raining! Again, that is not my style, but I decided to stick with them for the day.

We started down a steep grade to our next town of Viana do Castelo, and the town just didn’t get any closer. All of our feet were screaming at us, and we finally took a short break on a picnic table where I put my shoes on, a bit too late, for they were very sore.

And then the bridge, and then town. We split up. They went in search of their night’s stay and I found a seat at a café and called Kirk. The eight hour time difference meant he was just getting the day started as mine was winding down. Turns out he won an electric scooter at a work event yesterday, so that will be fun to try out when I get home!

Then I took to the streets to find some seafood for dinner. I was already treating myself to a hotel room and a shower, I might as well go big!

And I found a lovely place that was open for early eaters like me, and they were even playing Gen X music like Tears for Fears. Yes please!!

Finally I meandered over to my hotel (I’m splurging tonight!) and checked in. I couldn’t get any of the electricity to work, but took a shower and short nap before calling the front desk. Apparently you put your room key card in a slot by the door to turn things on. Huh! I’ve never seen that before!

I capped off the night with some apple crumble, and later in the hotel, some Netflix and chill. Luxury!